So I am not having the best of luck. I am not sure my other problem is solved but went out today to hope the latest fixes worked. I noticed immediately that my temp was rising past normal before leavong the no wake. It smelled of burnt rubber thought I threw a belt checked all good but it was over heating. I shut it down and brought it home. I foundf the sea water pump impeller was toast. It had no vanes on it atl all. It was new this year only two months old.

So how do I make sure I got all the rubber pieces out or is it not a concern. I backflowed through the oil cooler which seemed first in line and some came out. So I do more and where.
What makes a new one shred like this?

Back flush engine and hoses. Has the unit been run after installed. How long? Was it wound in the correct direction? If you cant get all the rubber out after the pump it has the possibility of stopping up some coolant passages. I myself have never gotten all of it out. How is the housing? Might need to replace it also. I lube mine with dish liquid to keep from burning up while picking up water.

What makes a new one shred like this?

dry fireing the engine even once can scorch the impeller..once one goes they all over heat and fly off..check your exhaust bellows and hoses..that was the rubber smell..

Had the same issue once. The impeller won't last long when dry. Learnt my lesson always lubricate the impeller, I use industrial vaseline.

PROSHADETREE....I have used the boat half a dozen times this year after putting in the new impeller/housing. I dont dry fire it always have the muffs on when not in the water.

BADLUCK/RIVERRAT.....I plan on doing the houseing too, and did lube with vasoline last time and will again.

MRFIXALL....So how do I check the bellows, are you saying I ruined those too possibly?

I will back flush everything but worry about a small piece in a head passage causing me to scorch/damage something.

My muffs slipped off a couple weeks back and I started at the last hose clamp and backflushed the entire system right back to the Outlet fitting on the pump. I used White Lithium grease to install the new impeller and it had about 2 1/2 dry minutes on it until I got all the old pieces out. After I had gotten everything out and was certain I had no other residue floating through the coolant system, I removed the pump housing and inspected the new impeller to be certain I hadn't burned up another one. The White Lithium Grease not only made the install a breeze, but it also keeps the impeller from having Any Kind of "dry" start while the water picks up. Tough lesson to learn, but the key is to determine what caused a 2 mo old impeller to disintegrate in the first place. You have a dual pickup Bravo?? You maybe run shallow unknowingly or over a shallow sandbar inadvertantly?

Back flushing the oil cooler will not get all the pieces out.Some will be wedged in tight and need to be pulled out with needle nose pliers.Take off the thermostat housing and blow compressed air through the passages, there will be pieces hiding in there that can starve one side of the exhaust of water.

lots of flushing, new impeller/housing and all is back to normal thanks all

All the veins/pieces of any size that matters will get stuck at the entance to the oil cooler. Pull the hose of and feel for any pieces inside the oil cooler.

Do not use white lithium or any other oil based lubricant to install new impellers. Oil breaks down rubber.

Use a zip tie cinched around the veins to lean them over in the correct direction. Then lube the SWP with DISH SOAP. Insert the impeller 1/2 way, cut the zip tie, and then tap the impeller the rest of the way in. With good access to the SWP. you can do it on the water in about 12 minutes including R&R.