I operate 100% of the time in Salt Water. I flush my motors after every run. I currently use the muffs on the water pick ups.

My question is: Im looking for a better way to do this. Problem is I have Alpha One Drives. I read about something called Superflush but they dont respond to my inquiries yet.
Anybody have some things I can look into to make life easier and get a more effective engine flushing with Alpha drives.

I flush my motor after every run as well, put the muffs on, runs for about 5 minutes. Not a big deal to me. The flush kits just put a t-fitting that allows you to attach a garden hose while the boat is still in the water but I don't see how that would make it easier for you if the boat is on the trailer.

I have seen adds for super flush and similar products. They all probably do a bit better job than the traditional way...however...The way you are doing it insures that the drive impeller is always lubricated while you are running the engines. Never run Alphas with out the drive pick up being submerged or connected to muffs and a hose.

The traditional method works ...I have run boats year round here in SE Florida doing what you do and have had them last as long as 10 years before having corrosion issues.

In a "salt life" environment keep an eye on those exhaust manifolds and risers...about 3~4 years is as far as you go with out a change of at least risers.

With Alpha drives, I am not sure how else you could flush them. Your limited by the impellor in the drive so thus need water flow through the lower pump in order to not destroy the impellor. If you go with a Superflush (or equivelent) up by the motor, you may blow out an impellor.

I would stick with the muffs for Alphas.

I run My merc outboard for about 5 minutes on muffs then shoot a little dawn dish soap in the hose an run again till the suds are gone. When I go in salt water. Artie

Dawn is the $hit for salt neutralizer. That's been a truthful "Old Salt" tale that actually works....but what works as well or better is baking soda. The baking soda actually neutralizes salt chemically and protects the surface of iron from corrosion.

SPrink how do you get the baking soda in the motor. The muffs I have are from the SALT AWAY company. They have a cup built in for salt away that mixes with the water. DO I just fill that cup with baking soda?

i was gonna ask same thing. how much soda to how much water? a friend of mine used to winterize with a 5 gal bucket of pink on the swim platform with a hose siphoning to the muffs...

whats wrong with muffs.. cant get much easier than that? On a thru hull raw water intake you have to switch the flow over to the hose inlet side with a vavle which means opening the engine bay climbing in and turning the valve... not exactly hard but it takes longer than throwing the muffs on..

I would run the engine on the muffs until you are up to temperature ensuring that the thermostat is open. Then I would turn on the SaltAway for the 30 seconds that they recommend (I go for 60 seconds but that is probably a waste). Then cut the engine while the SaltAway is still flowing. Turn the SaltAway to off and disconnect. I flush two engines and then back-flush my Bravo 1 drives with two containers of SaltAway. I'm still on my first quart this season. Seems like cheap insurance to me. With the Alphas you have to use the muffs. The muffs are good in that you flush the drive as well as the engine.
I have a Fountain with its own fresh water flush. But I have Bravo drives. The only reason I like this system better that the muffs (yes I am climbing in and out of the boat to double-check everything) is I can back-flush the drives.