I am currently going through the process of buffing out the project boat, cutting through the oxidation and so on.
This process is kicking my butt. 30' is a lot of boat.
I was just curious how much it might cost to have it done at a shop. I'm sure it isn't cheap and the sticker shock of finding out will be a good reminder to me to keep at it. I know there are a few guys on here that do it for a living. Who knows, maybe it isn't as expensive as I would think it is.

if its already has a shine most charge by the foot but in your case it would be 100 bucks a hour.+ materials..if you really want to save some time get aqua buff 1000,then follow with 2000,,chit works great...key to the process is to completely wash the boat betweensteps of rubbing it out..if you use 1000 grit aqua buff you have to wash the whole boat before you go to 2000 and same goes before you r final polish..or you will be doing twice the work trying to remove scratches..

I am using Aqua BUff 2000 right now and it seems to be working good at cutting through the layer of crap. I was just curious what it would cost to have it done at a shop. Sounds like it could be anywhere from $500-$1000, I imagine location is a big factor too!

Depending on the oxidation level it would be between $600-$1000 in the Northeast. Aqua Buff 2000 works best with a lambswool(intermediate polish) or a thick spun wool pad(heavy polish/cutting). Mrfixxall's recommendation is spot on with Aqua Buff and the process. My 3M bottles sit on the shelf now.

It seems to be working just fine, other than being time consuming. The cost of having someone else do it is always good incentive to keep at it! Although at times its nice to just pay someone and get it over with hahaha

You're a better man than most! Most people hear the price and are like, forget that I'll do it myself.. they usually call back after making a huge mess and putting a few hours in Keep pluggin you'll get there.

order the 1000 and cut your time in half,,,use a ruff cut coarse wool wheel,,buff the whole boat out,,dont worried about the the splash of the compound,,it also helps to have a spray bottle in hand because the aqua buff drys fast..all you want to do with the 100 is remove the oxidized gelcoat,were not trying to get any shine yet a dull shine yes..once you wipe off the surface and see a dull shine and no mufti layers of the same color gel then its time to move on to the next part of the hull..do the whole hull and wash and go back to the aqua buff 2000,,get a fine tie on fine buffing bonnet,,the fine bonnet will give you a shine,,a great shine,, don't buff on high because all your going to do is throw stuff everywhere and ruin bonnets,,you want to buff slow,like on 3 if you have a variable speed buffer and not a orbital and apply a steady flat pressure..remember to buy a few bonnet;s because the aqua buff will distroy them..

I guess that's why it's called a project!

I do it. Without having to wetsand I charge between 15-30 a foot just for hull sides and deck. Unfortunately there are alot of variables and some stuff will never be brought back no matter how much work you do. I use and reccomend Wizards products. The Turbo Cut works wonders if used properly. Take your time and do 2'x2' sections overlapping about 30%.

I got tired of using my old buffer and picked up one of those Makita 9227's everyone raves about. I can see why, that thing is smooth and has lots of power. I went over one side until it got dark, am covered head to toe in compound, but I can already tell the difference. No doubt a great investment.