So, middle of August and just found a leak on the shift cable bellow (2 location). No way the end of the season yet, but near the end...and not sure if I want to do the whole job right now. I am thinking of trying to seal the leaks with some silicone adhesive to slow or temp stop the leaks until end of season...then do the the whole job correctly off season.

Has anyone tried to temp stop a leak on a rubber bellow.

If this was the u-joint bellow (different story ), but this is the just the shift cable bellow. Any thoughts???

Funny...I misspelled the word shift in the heading.

It isn't that big of a job - I wouldnt risk it. I think the problem you are going to have is that when you trim the boat the boot flexes. I don't see it working.

Did mine this year, had its mind of its own. Sometimes it didn't leak, sometimes it leaked like a faucet. My boat stays in the water. Wouldn't leak when the drive was all the way down..didn't take long to fix with two people...but you will need the special tools. cable went up in price that's for sure.

I am guessing where the tears are located that it wouldn't leak (much) with the drive down as well. They are located in the valleys of the bellow. Unfortunately, I boat where I am always going to full trim to move through no-wake channels (not trailer position). Another question....what if I just leave the leaks as is and let my bilge do the work for the rest of the season....nothing else could be damaged in the transom assembly???? Maybe burn out a bilge....but nothing else, right??? (PS. I keep the boat on a trailer).

it usually gets worse over the weeks and then fills bilge faster than it can spit it out...

buy the bellows for 25 bucks. take top end off cable. tilt drive all way up and pull cable out of boat. put on new bellows and feed it back in. you don't even hafta take off the drive. every time you turn the wheel you flex the bellows. let alone when trimming, which really stretches it. you try to rig it you will have a very bad day...edit; this works for alphas. i am PRETTY sure bravos are the same way...

I always had changed the cable with my Bravo when the boot went..I usually cut the cable, splice one to it and pull out..
at the drive there is a nut that needs a special tool to get off bolt from back, and at shift cable bracket in boat another special "bracket" tool to line up new cable. http://www.sterndrives.com/replace_b...hiftcable.html

I would not risk it at all, it's not that bad to swap it out.

So has anyone tried taking the cable from the top end (motor) and pulling it through the boot on a bravo. There is space there, but I see an issue getting the cable back through the transom with out the drive off. Once the season ends, I usually pull the drive and will probably change the cable, but just want the quickest way to get back on the water!