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525 heads/removal Q's

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Old 08-18-2012 | 12:00 PM
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Default 525 heads/removal Q's

Got a stuck valve. Need to remove heads and fix. Removed most of the bolts from intake manifold. etc. Do I need and if I do need to remove the fuel rack, how? Does the injectors just slide out? Anything else hold the intake manifold in? besides all the bolts? Once the intake man. part is out, and the main head bolts are removed, does the head just come off? do I need to remove the rockers etc? Does the heat exhangers needs to be removed? I got as far as I can go. Help..

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Old 08-18-2012 | 12:22 PM
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From: Between A Womans Leggs in IL
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Originally Posted by PARADOX
Got a stuck valve. Need to remove heads and fix. Removed most of the bolts from intake manifold. etc. Do I need and if I do need to remove the fuel rack, how? Does the injectors just slide out? Anything else hold the intake manifold in? besides all the bolts? Once the intake man. part is out, and the main head bolts are removed, does the head just come off? do I need to remove the rockers etc? Does the heat exhangers needs to be removed? I got as far as I can go. Help..

Thanks
P
FIRST PULL ALL WATER PLUGS AND DRAin THE WATER OUT OF THE SYSTEM..
if you can axxess the intake bolts then you dont need to remove the injectors but if it was my engine and their was 200 or more hours on them i would send out the injectors for testing and cleaning..jusr remove the 4 bolts that hold the rails in and you will need to get under every injector to pop rhen loose from the hole they sit in then they all come out with the rail's..to remove them from the rails you have to remove the upper retaining clip and kinda twist and pull at the same time and they will come out..when installing them you will need to replace the orings and lube them so they slide back in easier..

to remove the lower intake yea remove all the bollts,,may be some in the intake runners,then remove the oil pump drive at the back of the intake,takes place of the distributor..once everything is loose you will need to pry one of the corners to brake the seal and it will come off..

remove headers....

remove valve covers..

remove rocker arms,i have a piece of 2x12 that i drilled holes in that are numbered per cylinder you stick the pushrod in the hole for that cylinder and their are numbered wood pegs that the rocker arm and nut or poly lock rest on..try not to mix them up because over time the parts ware together and if you mix them up you could end up with a valve trane noise..
once they are all removed not you can start pullingthe head bolts,their should be around 19 bolts per head once they are removed you cqan remove the head,,they are heavy,around 80 lbs each so watch your toes.....
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Old 08-18-2012 | 12:36 PM
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From: Broomes Isle,Md
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a svc manual would be a very wise investment if your going to tear into this. the injector rail can be left in place but the rear ecm electronics bracket must come off before intake or heads will come off ,its held on w/studs on the back of engine, the heat exchanger comes off with the crossover as well as most of the front accessories raw water pump ,cool fuel module,p/s pump,coil packs etc
pulling the rocker arms and heads is the easy part getting everything bolted to them off is a PIA not a picnic in the boat!
make sure you pressure test headers one most likely cracked causing your valve issue even w the manual a few digital pics would be helpfull getting everything back were it was as the manual really doesn't have a whole lot of pics or info on what needs to come off to get the heads off have fun! Don't forget to drain the antifreeze before you start

Last edited by Broomes Isle Joe; 08-18-2012 at 12:39 PM.
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Old 08-18-2012 | 01:12 PM
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Thanks guys. Antifreeze is drained. headers, valve covers off. Two bolts on front, It looks llike thermostat housing, bolt on rear, (looks like ditributore spot, need to be off.) then I can start prying. Got some pics for reassambly, which I may not do. lol. but I need to send the heads out to repair valves. Headers do not leak, looks like reversion issue. Corrosion around gasket. I hate these CMI's but I don't think it's an internal leak issue. They leaked before, but I tested them once I removed them. Can't detect any internal leaks.
Will come back in a few hours.
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Old 08-18-2012 | 02:25 PM
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Darn thing not budging. All bolts are removed from intake, but it's not moving. Possibly gasket caulk or ? missed bolt? Moves a tiny bit. 1/64" - and I'm afraid to pry any harder. Any thougts?
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Old 08-18-2012 | 02:31 PM
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check the back for some reason i seem to remember the ecm bracket attaching to 1 stud in 1 head and 1 stud in the back of the intake on the the other side it will have to come off anyway if you unclamp the oil cooler and move it asside you should be able to get the 5/8 head nuts off and slide the brac ket rear ward to clear the studs
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Old 08-18-2012 | 06:20 PM
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This suka'r just don't want to come off. No more bolts to take out. Nothng on front and back. I can feel the old gasket glue all around, but this just not poping lose.
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Old 08-18-2012 | 06:34 PM
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From: Between A Womans Leggs in IL
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Originally Posted by PARADOX
This suka'r just don't want to come off. No more bolts to take out. Nothng on front and back. I can feel the old gasket glue all around, but this just not poping lose.
take a razor knofe and try to cut the silicone in the front of the intake to get it started..sometimes you have to use a bf pry bar to brake the seal..

look inside the intake runner on cyl 1 and 8 b4 prying,,i forget but their may still be those 2 bolts still in the intake..you should have removed 6 or 8 bolts per side..
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Old 08-19-2012 | 04:01 PM
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Wooo hoooo... !! Intake is moving, not off yet but rear is off 1" fronit still tight, 1/4". could be just the seal, but I think I can take the heads off now. While the heads/valves are fixed I can play with the intake, and jets. Thx for the input. Now.. how do I take the heads off.? lol. Bolts are off.
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