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Old 08-28-2012 | 01:17 PM
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Redoing a 33 fountain 10 meter.boat it is stripped out.Want to put a set of boxes on it.Came across a deal on 3 inch raised boxes.What if I re-drill the transom housing holes 3 inches lower than they are now would put my motors back at the stock height and be able to use these boxes.Not a normal way to do this but what you think. We a capable of doing all the work properly as far as the drilling ect,Any one ever do this. I REALIZE neutral boxes is the proper way but I have these boxes.Other than someone thinking I'm nuts what's you spin on this.Should work fine I think. JOHN SR
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Old 08-28-2012 | 02:06 PM
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i would put a transom assembly on a box, use the alignment shaft to locate it
if you had help put it on a floor jack and block of wood, have your helper hold it in place
with the access panels off reach in and mark the inside cut-out then you could see what had to be done.

my guess is the upper portion where the tiller arm would be would have to be filled.

i also think you'd be too deep, depending on where they are now.
but i hear ya on the all the re-glassing and cutting.

i took a big piece of brown wrapping paper and made a template of the transom assembly and exhaust pipes, so when i raise my engines i know where to cut, i hope !
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Old 08-28-2012 | 02:51 PM
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Yeah!! I have plenty of room for the box to go down because the drives are high now.And the box would make my drives a little lower. The box is a lot bigger than a transom assemblies and looks like About 1 inch of the original hole at top will have to be filled.I won't be able to use the two top holes but alphas don't use them. So at least you don't think I'm nuts.LOL JOHN SR
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Old 08-28-2012 | 07:21 PM
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putting the box on the way you are talking about, is not going to change the engine or drive center line. the foot back will feed the drive more water.

so if your high now a move back and a shorty might prove beneficial.

what i got from imco (cuz i called about stuff for my pair), was the 3 inch box is for v hulls where the standard bravo x-dim. could come up a few inches plus 1 more for the stand off.

so if you go the way you are thinking and your good now a little more cleaner water to the drives, more leverage,& rear cg, might work out.
if not, you don't need to re-cut and move the engines again.

try calling that reggie guy about it.

btw crazy's my dept., good luck w/ the project.
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Old 08-28-2012 | 07:46 PM
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That's what I mean the drive a foot back will get me deeper in the water right now I'm almost to the point where the prop wants to blow out all the time. I know the crank center line will stay the same. John SR
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Old 08-28-2012 | 08:05 PM
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i seen those and they say raised but how does that work with the straight shaft, stellings have a ujoint with a adjustable shaft im wondering how the imco works without raising or lowering the engines to keep the shaft straight.
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Old 08-28-2012 | 08:28 PM
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Johnnyb!!!The back flange of the box is approx 3 inches higher the assembly side.Then the front flange the transom side. You have to raies your motor mounts on the front of the engine 3 inches.The back imco inner transom plate has the mounts 3" higher.Therefore the shaft stays straight but your motor is 3 "higher without re-doing the transom hole so you have raised your X dimension 3 " with out moving the hole.JOHN SR
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Old 08-29-2012 | 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Fenderjack
Johnnyb!!!The back flange of the box is approx 3 inches higher the assembly side.Then the front flange the transom side. You have to raies your motor mounts on the front of the engine 3 inches.The back imco inner transom plate has the mounts 3" higher.Therefore the shaft stays straight but your motor is 3 "higher without re-doing the transom hole so you have raised your X dimension 3 " with out moving the hole.JOHN SR
John,

I sent you a PM.
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