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Old 11-07-2012 | 08:56 PM
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Question Paging Sydways or WD hitch experts

Is this a good choice for a WD hitch?

http://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distr...e/RP66130.html


and can you back up with a WD hitch??
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Old 11-07-2012 | 10:11 PM
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What kind of brake system?
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Old 11-07-2012 | 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ICDEDPPL
Is this a good choice for a WD hitch?

http://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distr...e/RP66130.html


and can you back up with a WD hitch??
a trunnion is the best way to go!,,their is constant pressure pushing opposite directions so what your pulling wont sway and yes you can back up with it and always make sure the part the spring bar is sitting in is under the bottom of the trailers beamb or you will bend the tongue when turning..
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Old 11-08-2012 | 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Sydwayz
What kind of brake system?
Electric, all 3 axles... Mr. Fix t all good info thanx

Last edited by ICDEDPPL; 11-08-2012 at 08:54 AM.
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Old 11-08-2012 | 09:03 AM
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Let it rip. That will be fine. You will probably need to buy a "pole tongue adapter" to apply the system to your trailer. ETrailer sells them.

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...vy+hitch+balls

You can back up just fine, but tight turns may create a bind, forward or backward. Not a big deal though.

You will probably want to release the tension on the bars prior to launching. I usually loosened or removed them before launching, and cinched them back up after retrieving. You don't want the bars to lift weight off the rear of the truck once the boat is off the trailer.

I don't know what your truck is, but a WD hitch does not make up for lack of truck.
Most of the ClassIII hitches that say something like 8500 lbs weight carrying and 14000 weight distributing... Are JUNK!!! Especially GM tube hitches and the Ford "V-5" hitch. V5 is the NAME of it, not the CLASS. If you are at or near your truck's capacity, junk the factory hitch and go with a true Class V hitch from Reese or Curt, or another. Ditch the grade 5 bolts they ship with, and upgrade to Grade 8 bolts. This only costs $300 bucks or so and is worth every penny. So are rear airbags.
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Old 11-08-2012 | 12:47 PM
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I have that exact set up and love it. This particuliar set up is designed to limit sway with the indent in the torsion bars. When you make a turn the bar rolls over the support and then returns back to the indent position when you straighten out. Excellent design and setup. Backing up is no problem.

When making a sharp turn, you will notice the sound of the bars rolling off and on the support.
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Old 11-08-2012 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by hp500efi
I have that exact set up and love it. This particuliar set up is designed to limit sway with the indent in the torsion bars. When you make a turn the bar rolls over the support and then returns back to the indent position when you straighten out. Excellent design and setup. Backing up is no problem.

When making a sharp turn, you will notice the sound of the bars rolling off and on the support.
I have the same setup. Works to perfection on my travel trailer.
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Old 11-13-2012 | 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by ICDEDPPL
Is this a good choice for a WD hitch?

http://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distr...e/RP66130.html


and can you back up with a WD hitch??
Ditch the big offroad tires and rims. They probably arent helping you much with the big old cig floppin around back there.
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Old 11-13-2012 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
Ditch the big offroad tires and rims. They probably arent helping you much with the big old cig floppin around back there.
IIRC, OP has an Excursion.

If so, I agree. Go back down to a stock tire diameter or maybe slightly larger; go to 18" diameter wheels (nothing bigger than 20)--at least 8 or 9 inch wide and tires that match--E-rated of course. Make sure you check the weight ratings on the tires AND the wheels.

You will see a drastic improvement over stock setup; guaranteed.
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Old 11-13-2012 | 11:37 PM
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Its stock wheels but yes the tires need to go,
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