I just bought a new to me '08 Baja with a 496 HO and I want to check out the sea water impeller and back plate surface before I hit the water this Spring. I crawled down in next to the engine to start the removal process and ended up giving up after about 2 hours. The boat is a 277 islander and the engine is mounted very close to the back seats making the removal of the pump VERY INTERESTING to say the least. I know more parts will have to be removed to get to it but I also don't want to take more off than I need to.

Can anyone with experience give me some pointers on what all needs to come off to get the pump removed?

I have to remove one of the studs on my boat to get the pump off. Just get a couple of jam nuts and unscrew it. Then, you can drop the pump without moving it forward.

I replaced mine on my 496 288 Sunsation last spriing with the Hardin Marine pump it took about an hour. i found step by step intructions on one of the forums i still have the directions i will post the link for your and its really easy it even list the tools you will need. I will have it up for your yet today.

You will need to remove the pulley carrier which just above the SWP which is two nuts and a bolt. This is not intuitive if you cannot look directly at the front of the motor. Older 496s have a bolt tensioner pushing the alternator out to snug the belt. The newer ones have spring tensioners.

www.bammarine.com to see a parts breakdown for some guidance.

http://www.sunsationboats.com/forums...light=Impeller

here's the link its fromt he Sunsation boats forum www.sunsationboats.com if the link does not work go to "Open Forum" and run a search on 496 Impeller it was posted on 6-16-2011...step by step instructions with pictures!

i would get hardin S/S pump and change it, can't be sureit will pump when first start-up. the front of impellor cavity get scoured. with the time it takes to do this job, don't want to do it too soon. i have had to drop cool-fuel3 to get to pump, when i do i'll put studs in back of fuel module to line up and hold it in place(think metric 8x1.25pitch thread). with the bolt and stud removed, i have put short stud in place of bolt to hang pump bracket up. that helps line up regular stud hole, while fighting hoses.

if you follow the directions on the link above it tells you how to prime the system so you don't have the dry start.

Thanks to all for your input. The pump is out, I was only slightly bloody on the left hand, but did recall a few choice words that I forgot I had in my vocabulary.

Removing the lower hose clamp was quite honestly the most difficult part of the job. What a nightmare to get to.

Good/bad news........impeller and back surface look great. I'm going to install a new impeller and gasket anyway. Its way too difficult to get to not to do it while its out.

How important is priming the fresh water system before the first start up?

Not necessary. Lube the new impeller before installing. I use white lithium grease.