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509 whipple sidemount blower set up

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Old 01-09-2013 | 08:31 PM
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509 whipple sidemount blower set up

I just dropped my 509 off to get re done. This project has been a SERIOUS P I T A !!! The boat ran great Until gremlin #1 (employee) winterized it & cracked the block, bye bye gremlin #1. Bought a brand new GM marine crate 502 let gremlin #2 (new employee merc certified) put it together, did'nt use the jumper when setting timing, bye bye head gaskets, had short block gone thru bored to 509, gremlin #2 broke a ring on assy & damaged piston, bye bye gremlin#2. After working on my current project in the boating on a budget section (finally pulling the trigger) with the help & suggestions of the fine people here on OSO that project has been an absolute blast & has renewed my interest in this project. Injection setup has not been altered from when it last ran well, stock 415hp roller cam, am upgrading lifters & rocker arms & heads to handle blower. I am also upgrading oil system & cooler, would like to upgrade cooling system as well, serpentine setup, what will work? or leave it alone? I am also changing exhaust from emi thunder to cmi because I sold the emi & found some straight tailpipes for the cmi's I already have. Question here is the whipple system has a exhaust probe that was tapped into the emi manifold, where & how do I mount it on the cmi's. I was thinking the easiest thing to do would be to install exhaust spacers & just tap in there, yes/no or have a bung installed in a primary tube? Thanks in advance, Randy
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Old 01-09-2013 | 08:37 PM
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dam gremlins hate them fkrs .
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Old 01-09-2013 | 09:40 PM
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At least these gremlins were fireable too bad I could'nt make them unhireable!!
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Old 01-09-2013 | 11:03 PM
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Not trying to be smart but why not change the cam while you are at it ? That will add to your hp gain in a big way. And yes you will need a bung in the exhaust to check A/F ratio's. I would also have it run and set up on a dyno by someone that knows what they are doing, this will be the best money you will spend . Just my .02
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Old 01-10-2013 | 02:28 AM
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Hi Jeff P31, The main 2 reasons to stay with the stock cam, 1 when I bought this boat with this setup & all was good this thing was a guided missle! It would accelerate so fast it would make your cheeks ripple back on your face! Reason 2 the ecu is already programmed for this cam combo. When I get the boat running again Eliminator suggested adding K planes to the hull cause it starts chine walking seriously above 85mph I saw 100mph 1 time but had to back off for safety & the engine was still pulling hard. Some history on the boat, 2000 Eliminator 250 eagle not sure what deadrise but its shallow,Teague platinum bravo imco-2shorty 30p bravo1 labbed, add on dual ram hydraulic steering. I am having the base engine dynoed to make sure all the inards stay in but have'nt found a shop than can do fuel injected blower setups aruond here yet. I will keep this thread updated as I get more info. Randy
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Old 01-10-2013 | 11:37 AM
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I would get rid of the piggyback Whipple ecm and go to a Mefi 4B. The piggyback will more than likely eventually fail. There are a few used ones around but you can't buy a new one. They haven't made them for over 10 years. Without the piggyback ecm, you don't need the egt probe.
There are also a few mods that should be done to the fuel rail (depending on which one you have) and the entire fuel system.
We have done tons of them. If I can help, give me a shout.
Eddie
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Old 01-10-2013 | 12:48 PM
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EGT was just for warning, has nothing to do with the running. If you don't install it, the light will blink a warning. You can weld a 1/8" NPT in any of the cylinders to install it. We also have resistor that you can put inline that will just tell it normal temp so the light doesn't blink.
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Old 01-10-2013 | 02:14 PM
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Thanks Dustin that info can make things easier to rig if you bypass it, my thought is that it was put there for a reason. I just talked to Youngs about the post he wrote & dang that dude is smart. I have another whipple charger that is new but has never been set up & we talked about both sets. This one is set up & ready to go but has not been used for a few years, after talking with Eddie @ Youngs it should work ok but could most likely use some updates, the new one has never been ran so will need ignition & tuned & all of that. Being that I own both of them already I have to weigh the cost between the two, The new one is for sale & someone is supposed to look at it next week if I dont get cash in hand at that time I will look harder at setting it up & selling the side mount. If that is the case I might look into a cam change as Jeff P31 suggested. My thoughts on this build is to get the boat running without going stupid in the pocket book so that is why I was going with the side mount. This build should be interesting with no gremlins but me, thats why I am putting this out there so hopefully I wont become my own worst enemy. Thanks guys for the info & suggestions I will keep things updated as I go. Randy
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Old 01-10-2013 | 06:29 PM
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Default No shortcut just more money

Jeff P31, I had to learn the hard way about shortcuts I would have said vortech as I have some experience with those guys & will never do business with them again as a result. After talking with Eddie @ Youngs I am leaning towards the new whipple I have unless it sells real quick & with that as posted I might do a cam change as well but the rest of the rotating assy should be good to go. I think Dustin was just throwing that out there as an option because those blowers are pretty old & the computors are not too smart. I have talked with him a few times & he is pretty sharp.
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Old 01-10-2013 | 09:44 PM
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Let there be no doubt Dustin know's his stuff ,that's why an answer like that surprized me. It looks to me as if you were saving all the good parts . I'm sure Eddie told you to go with the newer whipple and he is just the guy to get you fixed up. The man just has these engines figured out and has alway's been willing to help out .
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