teak swim decks what do you use to make em new again
#1
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hey guys after long time no boat work im back at gettin my old 255 bird going again.. ive asked before but since forgot
What process /product are you guys using on teak/swin decks trim to make em look good again.. Mines dried
What process /product are you guys using on teak/swin decks trim to make em look good again.. Mines dried
#3
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: chicago
Hands down best stuff ive used on teak. The oils and cleaners look good for about a week. This stuff lasts and looks very nice. Mr. Cig turned me onto it years ago, as he still rocks the original teak platform on his old school cigarette.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...d=cetol_marine
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...d=cetol_marine
#6
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From: Phoenix Arizona
Billy
#7
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From: Michigan
#8
Another trick to making the varnish last even longer is to use a product like smiths cpes(clear penetrating epoxy sealer) first, then scuffing and varnishing. The epoxy is super thin and will absorb into the wood instantly.
#9
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From: Perry Lake, KS Lake of Ozarks
If the teak is very weathered, a light sanding will probalby be needed. Then the decision - Oil or varnish(sikkins)
Oil is easy to reapply and often just needs the 3 step cleaner to freshen it up once every year or two. Scratches or scuffs are not an issue since the wood is saturated in oil. Oil can be a little tacky the first days after a heavy application.
Sikkens is a varnish that creates a hard film. It will last a long time, especially when not exposed to elements. When exposed to heavy direct sunlight, it can yellow, become brittle and crack. This allows mosture with no way to reprotect withough a full heavy sanding to remove all the old before applying new. Much like paint, a maintance coat can be applied if done before the surface is compromised. Scratches and scuffs expose the wood.
I prefer oil for my platform. My full cover extends over the platform.
Oil is easy to reapply and often just needs the 3 step cleaner to freshen it up once every year or two. Scratches or scuffs are not an issue since the wood is saturated in oil. Oil can be a little tacky the first days after a heavy application.
Sikkens is a varnish that creates a hard film. It will last a long time, especially when not exposed to elements. When exposed to heavy direct sunlight, it can yellow, become brittle and crack. This allows mosture with no way to reprotect withough a full heavy sanding to remove all the old before applying new. Much like paint, a maintance coat can be applied if done before the surface is compromised. Scratches and scuffs expose the wood.
I prefer oil for my platform. My full cover extends over the platform.
#10
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From: Michigan
I have used solution of red devil drain cleaner in water (lye) then solution with muratic acid in water to neutralize. rinse and dries bone white. Oil and looks brand new. Google for recipe I don't want to tell you how strong or weak to use but it worked absolutely perfectly for me.
Supposedly a stronger version of the teak cleaner available at stores. Be careful to only get on teak and not glass, gel or metal. If you use sikkens it does last well but you are done as far as cleaning. it would have to be sanded and reapplied.
Supposedly a stronger version of the teak cleaner available at stores. Be careful to only get on teak and not glass, gel or metal. If you use sikkens it does last well but you are done as far as cleaning. it would have to be sanded and reapplied.



