Foaming Gas Tanks- Help Dave
#1
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From: Wild n Reckless From North Texas
How in the world do you pour this much foam and set the tanks down in time? I ordered sum pourable foam today to play around with but whats your suggestion on mounting these tanks??
#4
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From: Wild n Reckless From North Texas
Its got to have foam under it because of the steps which is a huge area to cover with foam. I dont have a better pic but some of it is ~6" thick
Last edited by Pokher Ace; 03-11-2013 at 05:56 PM.
#5
i do the same, pour in smaller batches. Let each one expand all the way till you start the next. You have to be careful that schit will do some damage if you put to much in a close cavity. Dan, what Magnum do you have? I am starting a resto of one for my self. Currently i have a Klem Gem Sport copy but have decided to look for a real Mag. I have a pair of Arneson 6's and getting a pair of LS's built for it.
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Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
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Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
#6
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From: Murrayville Georgia
do as they said and use small batches or really bad things happen. years ago at a buddy's marina some guy thought it would be a good idea to fill the front of his 18 foot boat with foam so he drilled a small opening to pour it in. he mixed a couple gallons of it and dumped it in all at once. it made a heck of a noise when the deck broke loose and lifted a foot off the hull.
#7
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#9
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From: Leesburg, FL
Some other things to consider......
Make sure the cavity is well sealed. For instance, early (pre '94) Donzi Classics had a 3/4" PVC pipe set in the fore and aft tank bulkheads for draining the bow. Donzi installed the pipe in double sided rubber tape and it always allowed water into the compartment. The tanks were never finished in any way and corroded through. This may be a common problem in a lot of boats.
The solution is to seal the drain pipe in epoxy, and coat the tank w/coal tar epoxy. The new tank will probably last 50 years.
There can be a lot of pressure generated by the expanding foam. I usually temporarily bolted some 2" X 2" X 1/4" angles onto the outside of the top of the stringers so that it's easy to clamp some 2" X 4" lumber across the tank top.
Make sure the cavity is well sealed. For instance, early (pre '94) Donzi Classics had a 3/4" PVC pipe set in the fore and aft tank bulkheads for draining the bow. Donzi installed the pipe in double sided rubber tape and it always allowed water into the compartment. The tanks were never finished in any way and corroded through. This may be a common problem in a lot of boats.
The solution is to seal the drain pipe in epoxy, and coat the tank w/coal tar epoxy. The new tank will probably last 50 years.
There can be a lot of pressure generated by the expanding foam. I usually temporarily bolted some 2" X 2" X 1/4" angles onto the outside of the top of the stringers so that it's easy to clamp some 2" X 4" lumber across the tank top.
Last edited by gcarter; 03-12-2013 at 07:21 PM.
#10
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From: Leesburg, FL
The method outlined in the article listed above is fine if you don't mind giving up 30% to 50% of your tank volume.
Also, it's very difficult if not practically impossible to support a Vee shaped belly tank in deep Vee hull because the tank section is constantly changing. Foam is a great solution if the tank is properly coated.
Also, it's very difficult if not practically impossible to support a Vee shaped belly tank in deep Vee hull because the tank section is constantly changing. Foam is a great solution if the tank is properly coated.



