I was removing my water pump to replace the imellor last night when I noticed that my Stdb Fwd motor mount was loose. Not just loose, but LOOSE. The top nut was all the way at the top and the bottom nut all the way at the bottom. The locking ring tabs were not even bent over (i.e. never used). The engine has 320 hours like this in the boat with no coupler issues, gimble issues or anything. Drives slides on and off nicely (or so says my mechanic).

I snugged up the bottom nut to take a small amount of weight, and then tightened the upper. I had marked the engine placemment before doing this with tape and marker, and it did not move a bit.

All the other motor mounts were tight.

The engine is a 496HO with a Bravo I-X in a 2000 Velocity 260. Normally I would be all over aligning this, but the way it has been running, I am loath to touch the configuration at this point. Mid-70's and motor is smooth as hell. I tend to over-engineer when making simple changes and adjustments.


BTW, the water pump was toast. Appears to have had the orginal impeller still installed. (factory black paint on bolts, not scratched or cracked). Both ends severly scored. Ordered a new Hardin SS last night (w/ pulley). Not bad for a 10 year old pump. Still had 2.4psi at idle.

Probably should check it, not too hard.

if the other mount was tight ...what you did is just fine .... it both mount were loose then you might check it ...

Something like this? I had all 4 front mounts loose like this when I replaced the engines. The only damage I could find was the threads on the mount studs were stripped from the engines bouncing up & down. The reason I started looking was because the engines seemed to be drooping a little. I was pretty pizzed because I had a merc shop replace an engine under warranty not only was the one they didn't replace like this but they did it to the one they did work on. I take it back the stringer mount bolts were bent & stretched, fortunately that was an easy fix. Back to the subject if you can get a mirror back there to look you might check your coupler just to be on the safe side. Randy

I have my mechanic stopping by next week to pull the drive while I am vacation. He is going to check the alignment and make adjustments if needed, and change the outdrive oil. Better to spend the $200 now to get all that done then $1000+ later due to my laziness. Doh!

Just wondering what else may have been half-assed and what could pop up on me. The electroncs/electrical was butchered when they went from a 454 to the 496HO. Still working on that one.....

Randy,
Yes, that is very close to what I saw. I was a bit shocked. Although I do not beat on mine, nor hammer it, the torque it puts out just during normal operation is still quite a bit. I have broken motor mounts in cars before and have seen the entire engine almost lift out from under the hood.

You did it wrong!

The top nut never moves, The lower nut always back down, throwing the alignment out.

You should have turned the lower nut, raising the motor until it was tight against the upper nut. By moving the upper nut, you have changed the alignment outta wack. Gotta put an alignment tool in there and get it back to par.
Next time, don't move the upper nut and you'll be pretty much good to go. Whenever you see a gap between the upper nut and the mount, you know the lower nut has backed off

When he has the drive off he needs to inspect the splines on the coupler. If it has aluminum splines it is most likely toasted. At least that has been my experience with out of alignment engines.

In theory, I agree with you. But the top nut on mine was teetering on the edge of actually falling off the stud. That could not be correct.

Possibly the mount was mounted too low from the get go requiring the motor to be adjusted high. The upper nut is a nylock. It doesn't turn freely.
Once it's rechcked and done, make note of where the upper nuts are for future reference.