I just got my order from US Composites for my stringer and transom replacement. I'm new to fiberglass work so I need some info and help. I ordered 700 vinylester and 1708 biax, 1.5oz csm, and a bunch of other odds and ends and I'm using arraco ply 7 ply exterior AB grade plywood. Is there a easy way to make a template to cut out the plywood or do I just keep taping cardboard together? How or what do I prep the bare hull with before beginning glass work? I was also wondering if I should gel or paint the motor well after all of this work? And if I don't add wax to my last layer how long can I wait to top coat it? This is just what I can think of now so I'm sure I'll have more questions. Thanks

Here is a link to my pics
http:// photobucket.com/user/seebold236/library/

after the old wood is removed all areas shoud be ground in 36 grit. For the pattern I'm kinda lucky my shop is next door to a commercial power entry door company and I have piles of large flat 8'x8' sheets of cardboard. I just map out the dimensions on a piece of paper then transfer them to the cardboard and fit/trim as necessary.

I will elaborate more tomorrow, its a pain typing on this stupid tablet touch screen lol

where did you go Dave? Just 36 grit no cleaners or prepsol? what about the original black paint, does it all have to come off? The temperature here in New York is getting questionable mid to low 60s how long do I need to keep heat on? I have the boat in a tarp garage it warms up nicely but doesn't hold the heat.

Temperature is very important. No just ambient. What I mean is that the ideal temp is 77*, everything is 77*. You just can't walk into the shop with it at 62* and turn it up to 80* and in an hour do glass work on the hull that is 62*. The hull at that temp will pull the heat out of the chemical reaction and you will find your resin drained out of your layup and is in the bottom of the bilge. You can work at lower temps but a stable temperature of everything is what you want, hull,resin,wood and fiberglass clothes. When we built our boat here in New England we put everything in the shop set the thermostat with a screw at 77* and did prep work for a week to make sure everything was the same temp.

What is a "safe" coolest temp? Unfortunately the temps here have dropped, about 55° during the day. I can't fit the boat in my garage because my Jeep is 1/2 tore down and the wife claimed the open bay. I do have it in a tarp building but its not practical to constantly heat, should I be looking more at spring for this?

Like mrv8outboard said, without having a heated shop to enable a consistant temperature I think you'd be better off waiting for spring.........I have a portable shelter 20'X40"
for my 27' magnum. I had purchased a pretty big BTU propane heater with the thought to do glass work in the winter, I soon found out (because my shelter wasn't insulated)
that the resin wasn't kicking off consistantly. it just wasn't $$$ practicle to keep using 100 lb. propane cylinders every 4 ...only to have the heat escape as soon as i shut it off.

you guys would be surprised what 2'' of closed cell spray foam does to the inside of those enclosures...my buddy did it and installed a small gas furnace in his..he can get it to 0- in their..

FIXX,....So it's literally sprayed on?.....and as far as the inside finish, i'm picturing it to be a very textured surface. No doubt any heat source would get that place nice n toasty very quickly and have it long lasting!

that depends on the guy spraying the foam,,if he is a fast even sprayer it goes on smooth..if he cross;s his patterns too much then it will be all lumpy..my wgole shop is sprayed in closed cell..i can literly turn the head up to 80* and shut it off and by morning its still 60 * in the shop..my oil heater would kick on every 15 minuted and now once every hour..and in the summer it stays cool,,25* cooler then the outside temps...they did my friends 6 flat,,just the roof and the box's in the basement and that cut his heat bill from 600 a month to 300 a month,,

look at it this way,,when you fill a foam coffie cup with 180* coffie and it dont go through the cup and burns your hand that rite their tells you foam has great insulation..

if you really want to do the inside of your boat enclosure put up chicken wire first,,this way you know it will stay together..also wait about a week and paing the inside with white fire proof paint,,makes a huge differance when painted white..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yOHxcGqzzXo

So now that its to cold to start rebuilding what should I do? I have a 5 gal pail of vinylester that has a 3 month shelf life, i dont know what to do with it its not going to be warm enough to use before it expires. Should I continue cutting everything out? I was going to do it in sections so I only have the bulkhead and stringers cut out now. Is it safe to cut everything out, floors, transom, and cabin stringers while its on the trailer or will I mess up the bottom of the hull? Its on a roller trailer now. Thanks