Bulletproof BBC Combo....SC or NA.....
#1
OK you engine gurus and back yard weekend warriors. Heres the deal. For all those who dont know about engines i thought maybe we can put together the ultimate combo, or atleast soe sort of base line for first timers looking to get some power out of there boats.
Now i'm not talking about spending thousands upon thousands for billet stuff and "one off" custom jobbers.
The name of this game is more or less factory available or easy to get at. So lets say we combine all our thoughts and see if we can put together a combo that makes.....oh lets say about 550-600 reliable HP and doesnt need to be tinkered with every single weekend! Hows that sound?
*Base engine i think should be the ole-reliable 502 BBC
*Lets go with a off the shelf factory available Forged crank
*Forged pistons ofcourse but what is the general consensus of brand? and what compression do we want? 10:1 and run on premeum? or should we lower it and go with a blower???
*Heads??
*Cam?? Lift?? Durration??
*Valve train??
*oiling system?
*Blower or Modified EFI system???
Lets get some suggestions going and ill keep updating the list so all the info will be at the top. I think this should help alot of people out there wanting/thinking about doing some engine work to theirs.
Now i'm not talking about spending thousands upon thousands for billet stuff and "one off" custom jobbers.
The name of this game is more or less factory available or easy to get at. So lets say we combine all our thoughts and see if we can put together a combo that makes.....oh lets say about 550-600 reliable HP and doesnt need to be tinkered with every single weekend! Hows that sound?
*Base engine i think should be the ole-reliable 502 BBC
*Lets go with a off the shelf factory available Forged crank
*Forged pistons ofcourse but what is the general consensus of brand? and what compression do we want? 10:1 and run on premeum? or should we lower it and go with a blower???

*Heads??
*Cam?? Lift?? Durration??
*Valve train??
*oiling system?
*Blower or Modified EFI system???
Lets get some suggestions going and ill keep updating the list so all the info will be at the top. I think this should help alot of people out there wanting/thinking about doing some engine work to theirs.
__________________
-Wally
Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
-Wally
Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
#3
Registered

Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,045
Likes: 3
From: N. NJ, Eastern LI
Depends how you want to run. I'm supercharger and love it. When set up properly with mild boost you will have no problems and will not have to constantly make adjustments. If you like to run 4000 + rpm for long runs, then maybe this is not the way to go.
If you go N/A, then you need to be concerned about who builds the motor. They can grenade just as fast as a supercharged motor.
If you go N/A, then you need to be concerned about who builds the motor. They can grenade just as fast as a supercharged motor.
#4
Ken, can you post any specs on your engine/s? What kind of power your getting? What blowers? compression? cam size/make? etc..etc...
Thanks
Thanks
__________________
-Wally
Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
-Wally
Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Here is what I built, rigged and installed over the winter, here goes:
Gen V 502 mag (forged crank and rods, 4 bolt main caps), ARP rod bolts, bored .034over. Block is now a 4.500 bore and stock stroke (4.000 I think) make it a 509 or 510ci motor, depending on who you ask. However, the extra .017 inches on each side of the piston probably makes little difference, so sticking with 502 ci's will do fine, unless machining is needed.
Kieth Black 9.9:1 hyperutectic(sp) pistons (on 118cc heads, mine are 119 cc heads, slightly droping the compression, see below)
GM High Perf Alum Heads, Rect Port, 2.25/1.88valves, 315cc runners, slight blend job on the intake ports, ARP stud Kit (@ $110 they better be good!!!!!!HAHAHAHA).
Crane Hydraulic Roller 226/234 dur, .598/.610 lift at .050. Crane triple springs, I think the spring rates are 195 and 415.....I think, not 100% on that and I am not in my office to look up the info (they are the springs Crane recommends to use with this cam...obviously.) Crane Hydrualic lifters, Summit 1.70 roller rockers.
Eldebrock Airgap Intake, Holley 850 Double pumper (mechanical secondaries)
MSD 6AL and MSD wires and MSD Blaster 2 coil, Bosch Platinum #1 plugs.
Melling High Volume Oil Pump, FelPro Gaskets.........hmmmmmm what else.......Holley electric fuel pump and regulator, K&N Arrestor.
Pre-build block work: Bored .034 over due to pitted cylinder walls. New cam bearings, Crank spun 30/30 (main and bearing journals), everything balanced, Align Bore.......I think that is it, this is all from memory here.
I blue printed all clearances to factory specs during the build. The entire motor has been balanced and blueprinted.
Dyno numbers with THIS carb were 520hp and 575 ft/lbs/tq with a very flat tq curve. It breaks 500 ft/lbs/tq @ about 2800 RPM and does not fall below 500 ft/lbs /tq until about 5400 rpm, with the peak at, I beleive, 4800. Gives the boat (24 Outlaw)great quickness. Runs very strong and clean. Oh yeah, I am running 80 jets on all four corners.
We ran dyno sweeps to 6000 RPm, no problem. I would twist in that hard, but the tq curve tells me to prop it at about 53-5400, which I am working on.
For more power without much hassle I would go one up on the cam selection to the .610/.632 lift Crane (I think that part number is 139741, and mine is 139731, one of you guys will be able to verify that.
) and have some additional head work done. That may get you to the 550hp mark. Infact, I may do that myself.
I have only about 30 hours on the motor, but happy so far.....
Hope this helps someone out, becasue it took me a long freakin' time and some thorough research to pick these parts. Turned out to be an excellent N/A conservative boat motor. Nothing crazy and starts every day......sounds cool too!!! LAter, Allan4
Gen V 502 mag (forged crank and rods, 4 bolt main caps), ARP rod bolts, bored .034over. Block is now a 4.500 bore and stock stroke (4.000 I think) make it a 509 or 510ci motor, depending on who you ask. However, the extra .017 inches on each side of the piston probably makes little difference, so sticking with 502 ci's will do fine, unless machining is needed.
Kieth Black 9.9:1 hyperutectic(sp) pistons (on 118cc heads, mine are 119 cc heads, slightly droping the compression, see below)
GM High Perf Alum Heads, Rect Port, 2.25/1.88valves, 315cc runners, slight blend job on the intake ports, ARP stud Kit (@ $110 they better be good!!!!!!HAHAHAHA).
Crane Hydraulic Roller 226/234 dur, .598/.610 lift at .050. Crane triple springs, I think the spring rates are 195 and 415.....I think, not 100% on that and I am not in my office to look up the info (they are the springs Crane recommends to use with this cam...obviously.) Crane Hydrualic lifters, Summit 1.70 roller rockers.
Eldebrock Airgap Intake, Holley 850 Double pumper (mechanical secondaries)
MSD 6AL and MSD wires and MSD Blaster 2 coil, Bosch Platinum #1 plugs.
Melling High Volume Oil Pump, FelPro Gaskets.........hmmmmmm what else.......Holley electric fuel pump and regulator, K&N Arrestor.
Pre-build block work: Bored .034 over due to pitted cylinder walls. New cam bearings, Crank spun 30/30 (main and bearing journals), everything balanced, Align Bore.......I think that is it, this is all from memory here.
I blue printed all clearances to factory specs during the build. The entire motor has been balanced and blueprinted.
Dyno numbers with THIS carb were 520hp and 575 ft/lbs/tq with a very flat tq curve. It breaks 500 ft/lbs/tq @ about 2800 RPM and does not fall below 500 ft/lbs /tq until about 5400 rpm, with the peak at, I beleive, 4800. Gives the boat (24 Outlaw)great quickness. Runs very strong and clean. Oh yeah, I am running 80 jets on all four corners.
We ran dyno sweeps to 6000 RPm, no problem. I would twist in that hard, but the tq curve tells me to prop it at about 53-5400, which I am working on.
For more power without much hassle I would go one up on the cam selection to the .610/.632 lift Crane (I think that part number is 139741, and mine is 139731, one of you guys will be able to verify that.
) and have some additional head work done. That may get you to the 550hp mark. Infact, I may do that myself.I have only about 30 hours on the motor, but happy so far.....
Hope this helps someone out, becasue it took me a long freakin' time and some thorough research to pick these parts. Turned out to be an excellent N/A conservative boat motor. Nothing crazy and starts every day......sounds cool too!!! LAter, Allan4
#7
Let's see...
Why go with a 502 when for under $2k you can make it a 540, there is no substitute for cubic inches.
How about the Canfield aluminum or Pro1 heads mildly ported with about a 120cc chamber (9:1cr)
Brodix , Dart , or Team G single plane intake.
Here's where I messed up.. I went with a solid roller cam (which makes great power 675hp) but if you want reliablitly go with a custom ground hydraulic roller.
850 Holley or 1050 Dominator (might be overkill)
MSD ignition
CMI headers, with the water dumping at the very end of the tailpipes (don't want to worry about reversion)
Some thing like this should make in the 600-625hp range unless you get real wild with the porting and maybe go up one on the CR then 675 plus can be had...just ask Kaama.
Why go with a 502 when for under $2k you can make it a 540, there is no substitute for cubic inches.
How about the Canfield aluminum or Pro1 heads mildly ported with about a 120cc chamber (9:1cr)
Brodix , Dart , or Team G single plane intake.
Here's where I messed up.. I went with a solid roller cam (which makes great power 675hp) but if you want reliablitly go with a custom ground hydraulic roller.
850 Holley or 1050 Dominator (might be overkill)
MSD ignition
CMI headers, with the water dumping at the very end of the tailpipes (don't want to worry about reversion)
Some thing like this should make in the 600-625hp range unless you get real wild with the porting and maybe go up one on the CR then 675 plus can be had...just ask Kaama.
#8
Originally posted by Allan4
Oh yeah, I am running 80 jets on all four corners.
LAter, Allan4
Oh yeah, I am running 80 jets on all four corners.
LAter, Allan4
My 540 w/ 850 Barry Grant flowing 920 cfm, full port and polish on heads and intake, 139741 cam, 2.3 and 1.9 valves, dynoed 683 at 5680 and 676 tq @ 4700.
I have 80's in the front with a 4.5 PV and 90's in the back with no PV.
230 hours, maint: Change oil every 20 to 30 hours, change plugs, rotor, and dist. cap once a year. 93 octane
That is it. Knock on fiberglas


