Went from drum to disk last year. This is the set up I have its older so its DICO, but now titan http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Coup.../T1607500.html

Question is since going to disk I need to lock out the brakes, unless Im missing something this actuator does not have a lock out. Now what I did have is the inline electric lock out actuator, problem is due to the trailer jack being right behind the actuator when the actuator moves it tears off the lock out actuator. Now I looked at and could probably take the time and money buy another lock out actuator and break lines and re-tube it up front to miss the trailer jack, but after buying two lock out solenoids, kind of done with that idea.

friend has a welding shop, so I was thinking I about making a shroud to go around the front tongue so it could go back. But really couldn't I just drill a hole through the front just behind the front two bolts, and then stick a bolt in when I went back up. My only question is if I am going to hit something in there after drilling in.

If you have the acuator on the one you posted the back section of that one shoud not move,only the front part should unless you mounted it to the old hinged style acuator which slides into the tongue,,i would think from looking at the pic you posted only the front should be moving which wouldn't interfere with the solenoid..i dont think the acuator is mounted correctly to where it is smashing the solenoid..

on another note i would check the bolts that go into the side of the master cyl,,make sure they did not sher off and making the master move driving its self into the tongue jack..

well its the old style so its like built into the front of the trailer. The front portion moves, but accuator sticks out the back on springs and moves back and forth as well. All the bolts are fine, I check them.

The front tongue portion that slides in and out. I should be able to drill a hole through and throw a bolt in. I just didn't want to hit anything, but I don't think anything from the accuator is up that far.

the one you posted is a weld on unit,,sounds like you may have to weld the existing portion of the trailer to keep it from moving so the new one can work properly..would help if you had a picture of your current set up..

easy fix if you have a double flare tool ,just put lock out in line away from master cycl

ive had issues getting photos on here. Theres nothing new with the accuator. when I Converted I tore apart, clean it, lubed it and have verified function as it stops the trailer. Its really simple stick actuator in from the back, and it bolts into the trailer. My set up just looks like the one listed, its a DICO unit that looks to have been welded into the trailer.

If what you are truly asking is what I believe you are then yes. My Uncle's older boat has a pull pin set-up for backing up. I don't like the idea of drilling holes where they may
compromise the structural integrity of the coupler. So with that in mind why not just use the old boat yard trick. Get a big "C clamp" and tighten it down on the coupler where
you want to drill your hole. The clamp prevents the brakes from activating while backing the trailer.

that's a good point. I will check the clamp idea out. Thanks for the help. I just don't have the motivation to get all special in doing this. I only really need when I get home and have to back into the garage, other than that its never an issue.

The C-clamp will work. I had to use one when my dealer did not install the correct module (electric lock-out) for my new trailer. Keep it in the truck
so you don't have to worry about misplacing it.