FOY Vibra Cut
#1
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From: Fredericksburg
I'm trying to figure out if I need Vibra Cut before Totally Buff or if I can get away with TB alone followed by Vitreo. I've got a white gel Donzi with Imron stripes. The gel is still glossy for the most part. The deck has a few spots that are lightly to moderately oxidized. I don't wanna buy the VC if its something I dont need. The FOY product line up is a bit confusing, they've got several products that perform similar tasks. But I'm excited to start using it.
#2
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From: Carrollton, Ky
Pretty sure you use one or the other, not both...I wet sanded my hull a few years ago and then buffed it with TB and then a polish...turned out great...I would say if your just going to buff the light oxidation out, just use TB..
#3
I usually try Totally Buff first because of the ease of the product use. If that doesnt cut it (pun intended
) then I hit it with Vibra. I like the diminishing properties of Totally and like the clean up ease. Virba is a coarse fast cutting compound and is only necessary on the most oxidized gel, TB should be good for most everything else. follow up with Vitreo and maintain it with Quick Shine.
) then I hit it with Vibra. I like the diminishing properties of Totally and like the clean up ease. Virba is a coarse fast cutting compound and is only necessary on the most oxidized gel, TB should be good for most everything else. follow up with Vitreo and maintain it with Quick Shine.
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Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
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Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
Last edited by glassdave; 05-25-2014 at 08:56 PM.
#4
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From: Fredericksburg
That's kinda what I figured. I went ahead and ordered both. I wasn't really thinking when I originally posted but i'll need to buff out the bottom as well and it's a bit rougher than the deck. Also it seems that shipping and handling tops out at $20. Figured I'd better just have it all instead of having to place another order. Thanks for your help.
#5
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From: Wyandotte, MI
I have found using Vibra Cut on heavy oxidization works well because it stays wetter longer than Totally Buff (allowing you to work a larger area). I usually follow up with totally buff as it removes a lot of the swirls left behind from Vibra Cut. Totally buff is much dryer and does diminish which leave your pad pretty clean. Thaen follow up with Vitreo.
#6
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From: Fredericksburg
VIbra Cut really works fast. My Ox must be alot worse than I thought. With. VC my wool pad gets gooped up really quick. I can clean it once before it just becomes a pain. I just switched pads after a bit. Washed them all up last night and will hit it with Totally Buff tonight. I'm very happy with all the FOY products I purchase.
Rookie buffing question, whats the best way to work around metal deck pieces to avoid getting black streaks on my wool pad and gel? That stuff is hard to get off. The cleats and bow light are easy enough to tape off or work around by hand but the snaps are a B. I thought about buying a foam pad because the edge would be sharper and let me cut around the small pieces.
Rookie buffing question, whats the best way to work around metal deck pieces to avoid getting black streaks on my wool pad and gel? That stuff is hard to get off. The cleats and bow light are easy enough to tape off or work around by hand but the snaps are a B. I thought about buying a foam pad because the edge would be sharper and let me cut around the small pieces.
#7
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From: Wyandotte, MI
Rookie buffing question, whats the best way to work around metal deck pieces to avoid getting black streaks on my wool pad and gel? That stuff is hard to get off. The cleats and bow light are easy enough to tape off or work around by hand but the snaps are a B. I thought about buying a foam pad because the edge would be sharper and let me cut around the small pieces.
Vibra cut will load up your pad a lot more than Totally Buff, but this is also what makes it more user friendly on heavily oxidized surfaces. However it is possible you are using too much as well... A little bit of it goes a long way. also are you applying the compound to your pad and then the boat or applying it directly to the boat? I have found on vertical surfaces like hull sides, applying it to the pad seems easier however it does load up the pad faster. try and apply and spread with a paint brush or similar applicator and then hit with the wheel. You might find it loads up less.




