Go Back  Offshoreonly.com > Technical > Detailing, Painting, & Fiberglass
Lag bolt stripped out fiberglass. How to fix? >

Lag bolt stripped out fiberglass. How to fix?

Notices

Lag bolt stripped out fiberglass. How to fix?

Thread Tools
 
Old 06-22-2014 | 07:52 PM
  #1  
buck183's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered
20 Year Member
 
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 4,753
Likes: 46
From: Siloam Springs, Ar.
Default Lag bolt stripped out fiberglass. How to fix?

When replacing the bolsters in our Bullet one of the lag screws that hold the base to the floor of the boat stripped out. The bolster now has slight movement due to the hole being in the front of the base.

I'm looking for ideas on what to put in the hole that will be strong enough to hold the lag. The seat or the base will not be removed. Due to this I need to find something I can get through the seat base and down into the fiberglass.

My ideas so far. Mix up some two part epoxy and work it down into the hole. Allow it to cure then drill a pilot hole prior to running lag back into hole.

Thought about using epoxy putty. Thoughts?

Get some 5200 and put it into the hole. Again, allow to cure then drill pilot before running lag back in.

Hit me with your thoughts.......

Buck
buck183 is offline  
Reply
Old 06-22-2014 | 08:06 PM
  #2  
Registered
15 Year Member
 
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 10,041
Likes: 712
From: Toledo Oh
Default

how much room is under the floor in the area? you can get some mongo duty toggle bolts. 5200 is too soft. I dont see a way of acking" the putty, that stuff is usally pretty dense. might have better luck mixing some regular epoxy with thickener and just plug the very bottom of the hole, then mix up some fairly thin and pour it in so it fills all the little nooks and voids for better grab. not saying this will work, just tossing out ideas.
phragle is offline  
Reply
Old 06-22-2014 | 08:17 PM
  #3  
Registered
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 8,527
Likes: 706
From: Taunton Ma
Default

I pulled all my lags and used 1/4 20 toggles. If that's not an option you can get a syringe from a fiberglass supply shop and inject some thickened resin into the hole.
Unlimited jd is offline  
Reply
Old 06-22-2014 | 08:18 PM
  #4  
buck183's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered
20 Year Member
 
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 4,753
Likes: 46
From: Siloam Springs, Ar.
Default

Phragle, room is limited. I'm guessing about a 1/2" between floor and whatever is below it. I'm thinking its a fuel tank that's directly below the hole. Access would be from top only.

I'm gonna dig around at the hardware store to see if I can find some sort of toggle style bolt that might expand after being inserted into the hole. Obviously not hitting or rubbing the tank would be a big concern going this route.

Buck
buck183 is offline  
Reply
Old 06-22-2014 | 08:29 PM
  #5  
Registered
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 8,527
Likes: 706
From: Taunton Ma
Default

I got mine from Home Depot I'll see if I can dig up a pic
Unlimited jd is offline  
Reply
Old 06-22-2014 | 09:03 PM
  #6  
buck183's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered
20 Year Member
 
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 4,753
Likes: 46
From: Siloam Springs, Ar.
Default

lil red, thank you for the input. If the toggle bolt doesn't work the syringe with resin sounds like a great idea.

Buck
buck183 is offline  
Reply
Old 06-23-2014 | 06:47 AM
  #7  
Registered
10 Year Member
 
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 4,031
Likes: 10
From: westville, NJ
Default

not just resin. take some mat and shred it and stuff glass fibers into hole. soak with resin, push repeat.
dereknkathy is offline  
Reply
Old 06-23-2014 | 07:45 AM
  #8  
jbraun2828's Avatar
Gold Member
15 Year Member
Gold Member
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,466
Likes: 211
From: Grand Haven, MI
Default

Fuel tank is about an inch and a half under the floor. Same thing happened on my bullet. I epoxied hard wood dowels in the holes and re drilled. Much easier with bolsters out of coarse.
jbraun2828 is offline  
Reply
Old 06-23-2014 | 08:27 AM
  #9  
Sydwayz's Avatar
Forum Regulator
20 Year Member
Super Moderators
VIP Member
 
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 24,211
Likes: 1,608
From: Worldwide
Default

Garelick Toggle Bolts are what you need Buck. They come in SS.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]525072[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]525073[/ATTACH]

http://www.iboats.com/Garelick-Toggl...-view_id.38770

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Garelick-Tog...-/390386902040

I have found them at one of the home improvements stores before, but they are rare to see there.
Attached Thumbnails Lag bolt stripped out fiberglass. How to fix?-41cokeoe8dl.jpg   Lag bolt stripped out fiberglass. How to fix?-21026_togglers_2.jpg  
Sydwayz is offline  
Reply
Old 06-23-2014 | 12:36 PM
  #10  
buck183's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered
20 Year Member
 
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 4,753
Likes: 46
From: Siloam Springs, Ar.
Default

Originally Posted by Sydwayz
Garelick Toggle Bolts are what you need Buck. They come in SS.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]525072[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]525073[/ATTACH]

http://www.iboats.com/Garelick-Toggl...-view_id.38770

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Garelick-Tog...-/390386902040

I have found them at one of the home improvements stores before, but they are rare to see there.
Interesting product. I like. I'll do some shopping tonight and see what I come up with.

My first choice would be something like you mentioned or a toggle bolt due to the ease of installation and not having to remove the seat. Main concern here would be that the bolt isn't too long and rubs on the fuel tank after the install. I'm thinking a toggle bolt will have to be fairly long in order to go in far enough and allow the springs to expand. I fully intend to do some research into the space I have prior to making a decision. I'm gonna borrow a video scope to see what I have going under there.

Buck
buck183 is offline  
Reply


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.