Just bought a '94 Powerquest 270 laser. I've a leaking trim tab actuator. Actually, it's the actual line going into the top of the actuator.
The tabs are 12"x12.5". Center of eye to eye is 7.5". Can't find a part number anywhere.

Can just the hose be replaced by ordering it from Boat Leveler? If so, any tricks to getting it out of the top of the actuator? Looks like a pressed fitting of sorts and the actuator would need to come apart.

Well, here it is....I figured out how it was put together.

Can I just splice in a 2" piece of new hose with an adapter and some stainless clamps?

I just got done doing this on mine. I have same tabs. Change all of the lines all the way to the pump and save future headaches. If one broke, chances are as soon an you touch the others, they are brittle and will snap. All of mine did when I though I could get away with changing just one. I went to the local hydraulic supply store and got same size hose from them. It was cheaper and probably better quality than stuff from boat leveler.

What PSI hose did you use? Insta trim shows burst pressure of 2000 psi. I think that translates to about 500 psi hose.

I used a Gates LOL tubing with 300 psi working pressure. Plenty for those things, they are plastic after all. I bet they don't get anywhere near 300 psi anyways

The pumps are rated at 350-400 psi, but the issue is the back pressure that is created on the tabs. If the boat comes out of the water and comes down on some good chop or wave, the back pressure against the tab can be 5x the pressure that is being pumped through, thus bursting a hose. That's why they use hose rated at 2000 psi burst pressure. That's according to Boat Leveler and Bennett.

Looks like you answered your own question. 2000 psi burst pressure.

Replace the entire line, pump to tab. Once done with the 1 leaking line, only 3 more to go

When i had a line leaking on an old boat Boat Leveler hooked me up with new line and new stainless clamps to replace those plastic hats they used on older applications. Given the boat's age I would replace all the lines and clamshells. The sealant used under the clamshells and screws is probably toast by now so not a bad idea to reseal everything where the lines pass thru the transom. .

Thanks for the tips. Tonight, I removed port side lines, clam shells, and cleaned out the holes and ever so gently scraped off as much sealant where the clamshells were as possible. I believe these to be the original 20 yr old lines. And yes, they have those plastic hats.

Just how clean does the holes for the lines need to be? Could I use a small cylindrical sanding bit to clean out the old sealant in the holes? Should I run a rag with some type of cleaning agent on it to get any fluid that may have leaked on the hole in the transom as I pulled the lines through? I'm just wanting to make sure the new sealant 'seals'. Gonna use 3M 4200 as Boat Leveler suggested yesterday on the phone.