Amsoil Severe Gear Lubricant In The Outdrives
#1
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Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Mason, MI
Your thoughts? What weight? How many quarts in each of my Bravo XR Drives. I have severe gear in them now and need to change it. I forgot what weight was put in. Thanks for the help. I need to get this done.
#2
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Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Chesapeake Bay
Ooooo playing with fire around here talking about any kind of oil.... Someone that lives on the edge lol
Just playing, I also prefer amsoil severe gear 75-110 is what you're looking for and you'll take a smidge over 2 quarts per drive. Purchase 5 and keep what's left for extra in the boat. Don't forget to pinch off the reservoir hose so you don't loose all the perfectly good oil in the reservoir.
Good luck.
Just playing, I also prefer amsoil severe gear 75-110 is what you're looking for and you'll take a smidge over 2 quarts per drive. Purchase 5 and keep what's left for extra in the boat. Don't forget to pinch off the reservoir hose so you don't loose all the perfectly good oil in the reservoir.
Good luck.
#4
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Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Delray Beach, FL
I have been using their heavier straight weight gear oils too. You might lose 1-2 mph on top but the drives shift like butter and are quiet.
#6
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 9,594
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From: Ft. Worth TX
Totally agree with changing 100 % of the gear oil including the gear oil in the reservoir bottle . Yes they sludge up in the bottom of the gear oil reservoir bottle so that needs to be cleaned out as well after draining the gear oil completely.
Also lets just say down the road you get a small outdrive leak, how do you know for sure the oil in bottle will drain down to refill the outdrive if you pinch the line off to drain just the outdrive. I would want to verify the gear oil in the bottle drains also just in case and is not plugged up for whatever reason.
One of the reasons for the bottle is to persay show you if the gear oil is going down as you most likely have a gear oil leak somewhere. Next the heating and cooling cycles of the engine(s) will build condensation in the gear reservoir bottle over time. Anyways just my 2c.
Also lets just say down the road you get a small outdrive leak, how do you know for sure the oil in bottle will drain down to refill the outdrive if you pinch the line off to drain just the outdrive. I would want to verify the gear oil in the bottle drains also just in case and is not plugged up for whatever reason.
One of the reasons for the bottle is to persay show you if the gear oil is going down as you most likely have a gear oil leak somewhere. Next the heating and cooling cycles of the engine(s) will build condensation in the gear reservoir bottle over time. Anyways just my 2c.
#7
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,696
Likes: 2
From: Metro Detroit
Totally agree with changing 100 % of the gear oil including the gear oil in the reservoir bottle . Yes they sludge up in the bottom of the gear oil reservoir bottle so that needs to be cleaned out as well after draining the gear oil completely.
Also lets just say down the road you get a small outdrive leak, how do you know for sure the oil in bottle will drain down to refill the outdrive if you pinch the line off to drain just the outdrive. I would want to verify the gear oil in the bottle drains also just in case and is not plugged up for whatever reason.
One of the reasons for the bottle is to persay show you if the gear oil is going down as you most likely have a gear oil leak somewhere. Next the heating and cooling cycles of the engine(s) will build condensation in the gear reservoir bottle over time. Anyways just my 2c.
Also lets just say down the road you get a small outdrive leak, how do you know for sure the oil in bottle will drain down to refill the outdrive if you pinch the line off to drain just the outdrive. I would want to verify the gear oil in the bottle drains also just in case and is not plugged up for whatever reason.
One of the reasons for the bottle is to persay show you if the gear oil is going down as you most likely have a gear oil leak somewhere. Next the heating and cooling cycles of the engine(s) will build condensation in the gear reservoir bottle over time. Anyways just my 2c.
What he said!
#8
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 643
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From: Chesapeake Bay
Everyone has their different methods, I use a pair of self locking pliers on the rubber hose inside the boat pre transom assembly and only pinch it off for the duration of the drain, Spending 10 seconds to make sure the hose releases back to shape isn't very difficult. The oil in my reservoir stays clean (granted it's 10 hour drive oil changes) and also drops slightly after each change topping off the small amount lost while installing the drain screw so I know that the reservoir functions. Also when not pinching it off you have a giant mess of oil running down the side of the drive when you pull the vent screw as to that's where the overflow seems to spew from.
As said above to each their own method. I have had 0 issues doing this for 7 years, running more power then you should through a bravo.
As said above to each their own method. I have had 0 issues doing this for 7 years, running more power then you should through a bravo.
#9
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Joined: Jun 2013
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From: AZ
Some run 75w-90 Severe Gear and some feel better using the 110. Teague has had great results using Amsoil SG in their drives as well as many others here. It's a very high quality lubricant. The 75w-110 isn't all that much more viscous, and in many applications calling for a 75w-90 weight, Amsoils 75w-110 is actually the proper product to use.
IMO 25 hrs is kind of a short interval unless it's been confirmed, by oil analysis to be contaminated, and or sheared out of grade. Very doubtful it's been sheared much if at all after 25 hrs in a bravo.
IMO 25 hrs is kind of a short interval unless it's been confirmed, by oil analysis to be contaminated, and or sheared out of grade. Very doubtful it's been sheared much if at all after 25 hrs in a bravo.
Last edited by Borgie; 09-25-2014 at 09:36 PM.
#10
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,696
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From: Metro Detroit
I hear ha, for me it is cheap to just change it when I do the engines. Maybe it is mental, but makes me feel better.
Some run 75w-90 Severe Gear and some feel better using the 110. Teague has had great results using Amsoil SG in their drives as well as many others here. It's a very high quality lubricant. The 75w-110 isn't all that much more viscous, and in many applications calling for a 75w-90 weight, Amsoils 75w-110 is actually the proper product to use.
IMO 25 hrs is kind of a short interval unless it's been confirmed, by oil analysis to be contaminated, and or sheared out of grade. Very doubtful it's been sheared much if at all after 25 hrs in a bravo.
IMO 25 hrs is kind of a short interval unless it's been confirmed, by oil analysis to be contaminated, and or sheared out of grade. Very doubtful it's been sheared much if at all after 25 hrs in a bravo.


