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Cleaning open cooling system

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Old 01-14-2015 | 11:51 AM
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Default Cleaning open cooling system

I have a 500EFI that is open cooling, is there anything that I can fill or flush the system with to help get rid of any of the deposits and just that I may have picked up over time?
It has been back flushed in the past and some junk has come out, but I'm sure there's stuff stuck still. Any ideas would be great, thanks!
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Old 01-15-2015 | 04:30 AM
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Ayuh,..... 99% of the crud that stays behind in the coolin' system, lays in the bottom of the block cavities,...

Set it up, 'n run yer flush, With the block drains Open/ removed,....

Whatever don't come out, most likely Ain't a problem,.....
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Old 01-15-2015 | 10:38 AM
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What I did to clean up a old 454 block and cooling was as follow's
1. 30 gallon wash tub filled with the Acid mix
2. sump pump placed in the tub
3 wood bleach or Oxalic acid

Hooked the sump pump to the pickup hose and let her circulate the the block...make it loop both in and out for about 8 hours... you wouldn't believe how much rust came out and settled. This was followed by a baking soda flush to neturalize the acid.

Last edited by Pliant; 01-16-2015 at 12:53 PM.
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Old 01-15-2015 | 01:12 PM
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Did you do this with all of the hoses and hoses and plastic parts attached? If so were there any issues?

Originally Posted by Pliant
What I did to clean up a old 454 block and cooling was as follow's
1. 30 gallon wash tub filled with the Acid mix
2. sump pump placed in the tub
3 wood bleach or Oxalic acid

Hooked the sump pump to the pickup hose and let her circulate the the block...make it loop both in and out for about 8 hours... you wouldn't believe how much rust came out and settled. This was followed by a baking soda flush to neturalize the acid.
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Old 01-15-2015 | 05:58 PM
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pull engine out. pull the freeze plugs. fire up pressure washer and blast into freeze plug holes and water pump holes. make sure to re-install freeze plugs...
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Old 01-15-2015 | 06:17 PM
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What about cleaning the different coolers?
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Old 01-16-2015 | 08:27 AM
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the worst will be build up at the bottom of the block on both sides...seen get so hard like concrete and caused heating issues...
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Old 01-16-2015 | 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by kevinb230
Did you do this with all of the hoses and hoses and plastic parts attached? If so were there any issues?
Pulled the thermostat out and took the freshwater pump out of the loop, no issue's just be sure to rinse the block well using baking soda it will neutrlize the acid..use the same method for neutralizng the acid pump the soda water under pressure fo 10 minutes that should be moe than enough.. Very effective very cheap

https://www.google.com/search?newwin...00.sjSYXQVJLJA

https://www.google.com/search?newwin...01.mYmCxvX99Ng

Below is a tutorial for cars just adapt for the marine..i just had a constant flush going on. By the way it's also one of the best hull cleaners you can find for stains just melts it off.

Last edited by Pliant; 01-16-2015 at 01:12 PM.
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Old 01-16-2015 | 01:08 PM
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The following is from GM bulletin #99-06-02-012D. Since it's a very involved procedure I've edited it.

Cause: Vehicles equipped with DEX-COOLŽ coolant, which may have been operated for extended periods of time with a low coolant level, usually in excess of 32,000 km (20,000 mi), may be susceptible to the formation of a rust-like material in the cooling system.

Correction: Flush the cooling system using the repair procedures that follow.

Parts and equipment required/suggested for this correction:

• 1 each PrestoneŽ Heavy Duty Cooling System Cleaner, GM P/N 12346500 - 1 per vehicle. This cleaner is in powder form and contains a neutralizer. Do not substitute other cleaners. The diluted cleaners that are available in liquid form are not effective and not recommended for this repair.

1) Disconnect both coolant hoses to the heater core from the engine.

2) Back flush the heater core for 5 minutes after clear water is present. Pressurized water not to exceed 345 Kpa (50 psi), may be used.

3) Reinstall the heater hoses to the engine.

4) Mix the PrestoneŽ Heavy Duty Cooling System Cleaner, GM P/N 12346500, in approximately 3 L (3 qt) of warm water. Pour the mixture into the radiator. Top off the system with plain water and reinstall the radiator cap. Run the engine at 1600 to 1800 RPM with the air conditioning in the maximum cool position.

Important: It is imperative that all air pockets have been removed from the cooling system in order for the cleaning procedure to be effective.

Important: The flushing procedure relies on heat as a catalyst in order to be effective. Ambient temperatures below 10°C (50°F) do not allow sufficient cycling of the thermostat to effectively clean the cooling system.

5) The cleaner should be left in the system for three hours (after normal operating temperature of the cooling system has been achieved). Normal operating temperature is when the coolant temperature stabilizes around 98°C (200°F). The best results are obtained when the coolant temperature is between 98°C (200°F) and 110°C (230°F). DO NOT EXCEED 113°C (235°F).

When this temperature has been reached, start the clock. Periodically (every twenty minutes or so), monitor the coolant temperature and engine during the three hour run time. A half hour has been built into the actual labor time to cover for the time spent monitoring the engine, etc. In order to achieve a constant temperature of 98°C (200°F) to 110°C (230°F) during this procedure, maintain the idle speed, turn on the A/C or partially close the hood. (JJ: Or block the radiator)

6) Turn off the engine. Caution: The cooling system and coolant are hot and under pressure. Loosen only the radiator drain until the pressure has been released from the cooling system and follow the procedures exactly in this bulletin, using normal safety precautions to avoid being injured by the hot coolant mixture.

7) Drain the radiator and block. When the water has stopped coming out of the radiator drain hose, close the radiator drain. Using PrestoneŽ Heavy Duty Cooling System Cleaner, GM P/N 12346500, mix the neutralizer (from the bottom of the can) with approximately 3 L (3 qt) of warm (shower temperature) water.
Notice: Do not put cold water into a hot engine as engine damage may occur.

8) Pour the mixture from the step above into the radiator. Completely refill the cooling system with warm to hot water. When the radiator is full, install the radiator cap to the safety catch. Important: It is imperative that all air pockets have been removed in order for the procedure to be effective. Important: Under no circumstances should the neutralizer be left in the cooling system for any longer than ten minutes once the vehicle has reached operating temperature (thermostat open). The neutralizer is corrosive to aluminum and will damage system components if it is left in the cooling system for longer than ten minutes.

9) Start the engine and run at high idle. With the A/C on, bring the cooling system back to normal operating temperature and follow the directions on the can.

10) Allow to cool and drain the system, following the procedure listed above. Back flush for two minutes (or until water runs clear) through the upper radiator hose. Alternately, fill and drain several times until water runs clear.

11) Close radiator and block drain. Fill with a mix of 50% coolant and distilled water.
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