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7.4 motor runs then it don't

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Old 06-16-2015 | 03:11 PM
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Default 7.4 motor runs then it don't

Had boat out twice this year starts I run it for about an hour throw the anchor out then go to leave bout an hour later and it don't start . Same exact scenario a week apart , I spray starting fluid in and get nothing . Willing to bet I go turn the key over today and it starts . 7.4 carbed motor year is 95
Possible coil or module getting hot ?? What are your opinions ?
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Old 06-16-2015 | 03:22 PM
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Hydrolock is the most common issue when running fine then it won't start after sitting. But, Saying that it won't fire starting fluid is also a little odd. How much are you spraying in the intake? One trick you can try is checking the scrader valve on the front of the fuel rail (just below the front of the intake) and see if air comes out when it won't fire. If you have air then you're hydrolocked. Make sure you have pleny of rags to catch any gas if you do this trick. If it's not that then you have to check for spark and start to work your way backwards.

.
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Old 06-16-2015 | 03:28 PM
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Ignition related check for spark with inline sealed spark checkers so you are not parts buying & changing all over the place for not. I do think its spark related - heat & heat soak causing it.

If not the other things possible.

Vapor lock fuel boiling out of the fuel lines. heat soak - make sure your engine is cooling properly as well.

Or weak mechanical fuel pump.

Also Check for any fuel in your yellow tygon line from the fuel pump to the carb

If there is fuel in that line you have a bad fuel pump diaphragm. Also that extra fuel will dump into your carb. No good for the engine / cylinders / pistons and so on. Just saying

Last edited by BUP; 06-16-2015 at 04:05 PM.
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Old 06-16-2015 | 03:36 PM
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Wrap some ice packs so they are not leaking water out - place that ice on related ignition components one at a time to cool them down and see if your engine starts or least pops off. See which ignition related part when cooled off starts the engine - if that works then you found your problem child.
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Old 06-16-2015 | 03:48 PM
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I had similar issues last year. My issue was a weak coil, I replaced it and the boat then ran great.
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Old 06-16-2015 | 03:59 PM
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Weak coil is my guess as well.
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Old 06-16-2015 | 07:59 PM
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Msd blaster two if ur not already running one

U running a ballast resister check it for a broken coil
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Old 06-16-2015 | 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by BUP
Wrap some ice packs so they are not leaking water out - place that ice on related ignition components one at a time to cool them down and see if your engine starts or least pops off. See which ignition related part when cooled off starts the engine - if that works then you found your problem child.
Instead of using ice on electronics they make an aerosol can "freeze-it" I think, available at electronics store used in trouble shooting electronics strangely enough.
And for sure check all electrical connections, coil, distributor, module AND all grounds.
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Old 06-16-2015 | 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by redwhite
Hydrolock is the most common issue when running fine then it won't start after sitting. But, Saying that it won't fire starting fluid is also a little odd. How much are you spraying in the intake? One trick you can try is checking the scrader valve on the front of the fuel rail (just below the front of the intake) and see if air comes out when it won't fire. If you have air then you're hydrolocked. Make sure you have pleny of rags to catch any gas if you do this trick. If it's not that then you have to check for spark and start to work your way backwards.

.
a hydrolocked engine won,t crank over.also,no schrader valve on a carbed engine.
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Old 06-16-2015 | 08:30 PM
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Mike I think he means Vapor lock as he stated push the Schrader valve and if air comes out meaning that fuel boiled off. No fuel - air

I understand CARB engine = NO SCHRADER VALVE.
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