I spun out my coupler this past weekend and wonder if anyone had heard of a drive plate for a Bravo?
Also why doesn't Mercury pin the couplers from the metal to the rubber, after all the rubber is just a shock absorber and would still function in that capacity?

hey jspeeddemon!
why didn't you chase us down at cumberland(red checkmate 253 said kunkel's marine on side)
how in the world did you take out a couplar?
engine alignment ok?
jason

It happened to me last Monday also & I know my alignment was good.

On the Drive Plate thing...... last weekend I saw a 33' Eliminator with one lower units by Leading Edge (no longer in business??) and another aftermarket (no label) lower. This second drive was different as the cavitation plate had been chopped off in the back so larger diameter props could be run. A custom aluminum or stainless plate was made to be bolted onto the drive if regular diameter props were used. Also the drive shower pickup was tapped into this plate, without the plate a drive shower behind the prop was not possible. I think this is want you are asking!

I've heard from guys running crash boxes that a solid couple, (no isolator, rubber coupler, or tranny) is really hard on the reciprocating assembly if the prop hits something. All the shock is transferred to the rod/pistons.
There are inboard couplers that have a design somewhat similar to what you described. I've never seen one with a splined center though.
Maybe Merc just treats their couplers like bravo uppers. They just break after 100 or so hours and you have to replace them.
Gary

You maythink your alignment is GOOD but if your engine mounts are going bad they will flex WAY too much and when they flex they go out of alignment. Try using solid steel washers to lock the rear of the engine to the transom plate. Remove the fiber washer and replace it with large steel washers. Also remove the spacer from on top and replace it with washers that fit inside the mount to bring it up flush with the top and then use large washers to lock down the top of the mount. What you are trying to do is shim the engine with solid washers so that it will be in the EXACT same place as with the stock stuff. And the washers on top just lock it down so that the engine can't twist on the rear mounts. When the rear mounts go bad you will blow your coupler. Couplers only blow from bad engine alignment ( may be caused by bad mounts that flex under load) unless you have a very high HP engine.

I guess I have to come clean, I forgot to torque them down to the specified 30 ft/lbs., I had them barely snug, on engine install.

JOJO- I didn't make it to Cumberland, had to work that day, however I was wondering if you are having your shootout first weekend in October like usual.