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Old 01-07-2016 | 04:23 PM
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I am putting together a 383 for my 94 Sylvan 209 Barritz to replace the tired 305. The block is a 1970's two piece rear main seal with drivers (port) side dipstick through the block. I have an old deep sump circle track pan I was planning to use with baffling. I have plenty of depth to fit this pan in the bilge. I plan to add a milodon louvered windage tray also. Exhaust will be OEM mercruiser cast manifolds. My take out 305 is a one piece rear main seal engine so oil pan, oil pump pickup, dipstick set up etc. will not transfer.

Question: Should I use header flanges and gaskets to space out the manifolds and use the factory GM style dipstick hole and dipstick? Or weld a pipe on the oil pan and make an entirely new dipstick and plug the engine tube port? Or are there off the shelf components to use a Mercruiser style pumpable dipstick tube with this style engine? I've found several old threads but most come up with obsolete Mercruiser part numbers and never really state a solution. Using a GM style dipstick will still require plumbing hose or tubing to the drain plug for oil change access, but hydraulic hose and fittings would accomplish this part if need be. What have others done in this situation?
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Old 01-08-2016 | 03:02 AM
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I have new Dart Small blocks with which had similar problems. My solution was to fit a Tee fitting to the oil pan drain on the side with an elbow at the end to which I fitted an aftermarket dip stick, The centre of the Tee was fitted with a length of Hydraulic hose with a screw plug end as a blank so that I can fit an oil extraction pump at any time remotely. It works very well and is simple.
I also turned blanking plugs to fit into the original Dart dip stick holes in the block.
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Old 01-08-2016 | 06:09 AM
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K.I.S.S., dont use the manifold spacers. It just adds unneeded complexity to your system. Like Kalaazar said, put a T in the pan, one side for the oil drain hose and the other for where the dipstick goes in.
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Old 01-09-2016 | 08:20 AM
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I modified the after market dip stick with a tube bender. Gentle bends just to get it past the manifold.
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Old 01-09-2016 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by minx163
I modified the after market dip stick with a tube bender. Gentle bends just to get it past the manifold.
Do you remember what you started with for an aftermarket dipstick assy.? This is what I want to try and then fab. a separate hose assy. to the pan plug just for oil changes.
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Old 01-09-2016 | 11:43 AM
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If bending the tube doesn't help, maybe look into one of the Lockar flexible set ups:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/b...-Included/Yes/
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Old 01-09-2016 | 02:35 PM
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I bought my dipsticks from Summit Racing, both simple and very flexible.
Yes a separate hose just for oil changes because you can make it as long as you want for easy access and it provides a larger bore and can be connected to at any time without trying to find the drain plug down in the bilge.
I have a twin installation which is very tight to the point that I have had to fit AFR sensors rather that try to remove a hot spark plug to check the colour.
So being able to reach the lowest part of the sump from the cockpit is great.
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Old 01-09-2016 | 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 94sylvan
Do you remember what you started with for an aftermarket dipstick assy.? This is what I want to try and then fab. a separate hose assy. to the pan plug just for oil changes.

It was just a standard chrome Trans Dapt dip stick. For the remote oil drain hose. I measured the thread on the oil pan mine was 1/2-20. I ordered this kit of Amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o01_s00
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Old 01-10-2016 | 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by minx163
It was just a standard chrome Trans Dapt dip stick. For the remote oil drain hose. I measured the thread on the oil pan mine was 1/2-20. I ordered this kit of Amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o01_s00
This is the same one that is on my Donzi. It fits through the bilge drain hole. Another good option.

Jeff
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Old 01-10-2016 | 02:25 PM
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Awesome, thank you everyone for the help.
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