Velocity 260 Engine Hatch Replacement/Help?Advise
#1
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From: Hamilton, Ohio
While I'm in the mod stage on my boat, I'm not real happy with the Engine Hatch Lift unit's location......WAY-WAY to much stress on the hinges, lift and the hull where the hinge is bolted through. Looking for help on ideal placement for a new lift on a single engine, 260 Velocity giving maximum lift/hatch opening. I'm looking at using a single LENCO ball screw lift if at all possible, I've heard there pretty good units. Got, any pics or advice on this subject ? They'd be greatly appreciated, thanks.
Here's a pic when I bought it, motor end of lift is right above the transom assembly and hatch pivot is at the center of the hatch:
Here's a pic when I bought it, motor end of lift is right above the transom assembly and hatch pivot is at the center of the hatch:
Last edited by 90profx; 01-14-2016 at 05:55 AM.
#2
I think this was the first set up that I've seen like this requiring the the plastic engine cover to be slotted. There's always pro's and con's. My 22 has a similar short ram mounted on the transom but more off-center. It's nice that it's lifts the hatch very high and is out of the way but does stress things as you mention. My 280 has two long rams mounted on the lower bulkhead straddling the front of the engine. The plus is that it's very secure and definitely keeps the hatch closed. The downside is that the rams slightly interfere with engine access and even with the very long rams - the hatch opening isn't that great. I would think buying a second ram like you already have, and locating both rams just outboard of the exhaust hoses, would give you all the benefits you currently have while cutting the hatch and transom stress in half.
#3
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From: Hamilton, Ohio
Yeah, my ram leaves allot to be desired in its current state, it's a wonder the hatch hinges didn't pull out over time. I went ahead and ordered a Lenco (ball screw ram, one for now may do doubles if needed) P/N20778-001, 33" retracted and 53" extended. My plan is to mount the ram just fwd of the Port exhaust manifold hugging the motor. I plan on using removeable pit pins at the top and bottom so if something needs attention in the general area, pull 2 pins and the ram comes out. Top hatch mount will be a slotted mount allowing access to pull the pin in case of a power failure. Mounting it in this location should be allot easier on the ram as well as give me 38" of opening from the closed position, right now it only opens about 18". Pics will be forth coming once I start the install.
Side note: I went to unscrew the Port side bolster seat from the floor to make it easier to finish wiring and rehanging the wire harness since I've added the 2 hydraulic hoses in that bundle as well as side LED lighting strips, well to my surprise 3 of the floor screws were some how attached with nuts below the floor, I heard the nuts drop as I unscrewed those 3. All the rest were sheet metal type screws. How the hell did someone put nuts on those 3 screws ?????????????
Side note: I went to unscrew the Port side bolster seat from the floor to make it easier to finish wiring and rehanging the wire harness since I've added the 2 hydraulic hoses in that bundle as well as side LED lighting strips, well to my surprise 3 of the floor screws were some how attached with nuts below the floor, I heard the nuts drop as I unscrewed those 3. All the rest were sheet metal type screws. How the hell did someone put nuts on those 3 screws ?????????????
#4
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From: Maryland
You can always make a new one out of foam core. Mine weighs maybe 40 lbs and is bomb proof.
The bolsters typically use a special type of plastic & stainless anchor that gets inserted through the floor. Can't remember the brand at this second.
The bolsters typically use a special type of plastic & stainless anchor that gets inserted through the floor. Can't remember the brand at this second.
Last edited by speeddemon651; 01-15-2016 at 03:55 PM.
#5
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From: Hamilton, Ohio
The question still remains, how ?????????
#6
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From: Hamilton, Ohio
FLOOR INSERTS FOR BOLSTERS SCREWS FOUND:
I guess I got my own answer..........I pull out one of those floor inserts and it had the name "TOGGLER" embossed in the head. After a little web and image search, found what I thought they were, went off to LOWES to pick some up. They do need to be modified before usage, not a big deal. If anybody may need this info in more detail. let me know and I'll post up some pics, P/N's and what has to be modified before use.
I guess I got my own answer..........I pull out one of those floor inserts and it had the name "TOGGLER" embossed in the head. After a little web and image search, found what I thought they were, went off to LOWES to pick some up. They do need to be modified before usage, not a big deal. If anybody may need this info in more detail. let me know and I'll post up some pics, P/N's and what has to be modified before use.
Last edited by 90profx; 01-22-2016 at 02:47 AM. Reason: Correct spelling
#8
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From: Lakewood, NY, USA
FLOOR INSERTS FOR BOLSTERS SCREWS FOUND:
I guess I got my own answer..........I pull out one of those floor inserts and it had the name "TOPPER" embossed in the head. After a little web and image search, found what I thought they were, went off to LOWES to pick some up. They do need to be modified before usage, not a big deal. If anybody may need this info in more detail. let me know and I'll post up some pics, P/N's and what has to be modified before use.
I guess I got my own answer..........I pull out one of those floor inserts and it had the name "TOPPER" embossed in the head. After a little web and image search, found what I thought they were, went off to LOWES to pick some up. They do need to be modified before usage, not a big deal. If anybody may need this info in more detail. let me know and I'll post up some pics, P/N's and what has to be modified before use.
Padraig
#9
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From: Hamilton, Ohio
My bad, the correct product name is "TOGGLER" and not TOPPER, sorry for the error.
Kenny, just an FYI, I did pick up a box of these (10 pcs for $12 at LOWES), now mind you that these are plated steel and that the ones originally used by Velocity may have been stainless, but that's ok as they'll be sealed against water/rust.
Mfg. site: http://www.toggler.com/products/snap...stallation.php
Lowes Info:
TOGGLER 10-Pack 1/4-in x 2-1/2-in Toggle Bolts
Item #: 118084
Model #: 50425
Kenny, just an FYI, I did pick up a box of these (10 pcs for $12 at LOWES), now mind you that these are plated steel and that the ones originally used by Velocity may have been stainless, but that's ok as they'll be sealed against water/rust.
Mfg. site: http://www.toggler.com/products/snap...stallation.php
Lowes Info:
TOGGLER 10-Pack 1/4-in x 2-1/2-in Toggle Bolts
Item #: 118084
Model #: 50425
Last edited by 90profx; 01-22-2016 at 03:35 AM. Reason: Attached pic
#10
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From: Hamilton, Ohio
This thread got totally misdirected (my fault) as it started as a Hatch Lift Thread, well here's the LENCO ball screw Hatch Lift installed. Now this is more like it, lot's of room to access the engine room. Still have to pull the sun pad off the hatch to
remove some sort of bracket that was part of the original lift attachment point. That'll be a good time to repair some stripped out holes in the sun pad that were missing screws.


remove some sort of bracket that was part of the original lift attachment point. That'll be a good time to repair some stripped out holes in the sun pad that were missing screws.


Last edited by 90profx; 01-22-2016 at 03:55 AM.


