changed engines last summer. Went from HP 500s to 540 gen V1 blocks. Installed BLUE fel pro one piece pan gaskets. both engines leaked in the front where the pan meets the timing cover. One engine leaked in the back of course, like a stuck pig... running mode was over a quart an hour. What have I done wrong? How can I correct this? Engines are both back out....

Check your pan(s) for cracks. Don't use the Felpro gaskets...ever since they went overseas for mfg they've had a rep for cracking pans for some reason. We use and sell the (grey) ones that are made by the same factory here in the US that used to make the Felpro's. I also use just a little UltraSeal on the ends.

i use the fel pro gasket all the time BUT i apply a bead of the right stuff externally on the timing chain cover&front of pan.i call this the safety seal,lol.i have also used the grey ones without problems.

just to be sure i understand,did you use the same blocks to build the 540s?if the answer is no what year was the hp500 engine?

you have to use a little bit of sealant (ultra-black RTV, yamabond, etc.) on the corners of the timing cover, and on the rear main seal carrier (one piece RMS).

Some oil pans on the gasket surface have hollows in them and the gaskets have raised spots in the same spot. The raised spots end up in the hollows and it will leak. Happened to me and a few people I know they where canton pans. All the pans I put on now I no longer use gaskets just silicone.

I never has issues with Fel Pro blue ones, always fine so far if you dab the 4 corners, that's a must

F*&# ! that makes sense. I have canton pans and I`ve been batlling leaks since day one, I`ve spent some hours upside down in the bilge, looking for leaks applying the Right stuff on the outside of the pans like an A$$hole.

So no gaskets and you have no oil leaks?

[IMG]scarab1.jpg[/IMG] thanks

I've done this many times. Before they cam out with the right stuff I would use either the Ford gray silicone that they use on all there Diesel engines (usually need atleast 18" bar to get the pan off and that's still questionable) or Volkswagon white silicone. The VW stuff I patched a hole in a fuel tank that sat at the shop for a couple months and was not affected by fuel at all. They were the best sealants I ever used until they came out with the right stuff. If your going to go this route lay a nice thin bead of sealant on they pan it doesn't take much just enough that when it gets tightened down you can barely see the sealant pushing out. Gobbing it on you run the risk of clogging the oil pick-up. If use use the Ford sealer once it cures you can remove the pan bolts they will no longer be needed. Use them on another project. I'd be willing to bet you could suspend the motor from the pan upside down and it will never come off.