If any of you are using one of these............don't waste your money on replacing it, go with a spin on filter before the fuel pump. I pulled mine to replace it and something rattled inside.............I thought, well...might as well open it up to see what it was. The screen cylinder had come off so there was no filtering at all. Here's some pics of what Merc charges you $50 for, it's really a P.O.S. for a filter. Going to a spin on pre-pump filter. Looks like a fuel injector cleaning is in order from what was in the filter can.

half of them are bad right out of the box and or on brand new boats, When I carried new boats that damn filter within 10 to 30 hours would knock out the boast pump. That filter has been a junker since 2007 and still is. I actually had some made that are cleanable / reusable. Buy one time and unscrew it whenever - clean the screen as you go.

You can not install a spin on fuel filter before the boost fuel pump. It is too restrictive as it Micron ratings are 28 to 10 for the finer micron rated filter - the one in your pic is a 100 plus micron rating filter. You will cause a huge lean condition and or starve the boost pump inwhich is a low pressure fuel pump to feed the high pressure pump.

Listen to me here as I am saving you $$$$ plus another big pain if you install anything lower than a 100 micron rated fuel filter before the boost pump aka low pressure fuel pump. If you do not listen good luck because you will be buying new boost pumps within every 10 to 25 hours run time and then a motor down the road unless you install a true 100 plus micron rated spin on fuel filter. (before the boost pump) as I am referring to..

All fuel filters need to be changed min once a year anyways and it best to do them at summerization or if they start to become restrictive whichever comes first.

If your fuel has water in it - then all the fuel filters need to be changed regardless and that old fuel needs to come out before any run time..

fuel sample checking at least once a month is a very good piece of mind and so is keeping a new gasket or o ring seal on the gas cap to provide a good seal so water can not enter into your fuel supply. Thats the number one way how water enters into your gas tank. .

Check out a glass inline fuel filter. same thing but replaceable.

If that is 3/8 NPT fittings you could use this as a killer pre pump filter: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ae...placementparts

You can not use glass nor plastic for a an engine compartment fuel filter - one is its not USCG legal and two it is huge fire hazard. Three is, if you over heat your engine possible the plastic inline filters melts and spit gas all over the place and with a glass filter - vibration, anything moving around in the engine compartment or a belt breaks, by chance hits it can break the glass. Why do think the boat builder clamps the metal canister ones down with 2 rubber clamps. So it does not bang around and split open nor does not fly up hitting anything rotating.

SB the Merc fittings are .375 -18 x .500 for their junk filter

Thanks BUP for that explanation, I had no idea of a spin on 10 micron filter causing so much restriction. I got the message on the use of a 100+ micron filter and not to use a spin on for pre-pump filtering....."LOUD AND CLEAR" and again I thank you for your advise. I'll be shopping for another filter today, thanks again !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


EDIT:
I've just ordered a Aeromotive 100 Micron filter, p/n: 12304, 100 Microns, thanks again BUP !!!!!!!!!!!!!!