Help If You Can
09-26-2002 | 01:10 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 213
Likes: 1
From: Shelby Township MI
Help If You Can
1995 ford 5.0 EFI Volvo Penta
Run for 30min runs great then sputters when hitting waves
after stalling it will not run over idle speed in gear
but will rev fine while in neutral.
Replaced parts
anti siphon valve
water seperator filter
low pressure pump
high pressure pump
pressure regulator
fuel pump relay
Run for 30min runs great then sputters when hitting waves
after stalling it will not run over idle speed in gear
but will rev fine while in neutral.
Replaced parts
anti siphon valve
water seperator filter
low pressure pump
high pressure pump
pressure regulator
fuel pump relay
09-26-2002 | 05:23 PM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
A few questions...
1. have you checked the fuel pressure & volume, both cold and at the time of the problem?
2. What is your engine temp when this occurs?
3. Does this problem seem like it is caused by the amount of time you have been running, roughness of the water, or eng temp?
4. If you are on smooth water and do not hit waves does the boat continue to run normal indefinately?
5. What do you have to do to return to normal operation i.e.(wait 10 mins, eng temp drop to?, wait till completely cold again, etc?)
6. Can you make this happen right away by hitting rough water?
8. What year is the boat, and how many hours on it?
9. Any previous problems with running or other repairs done in the past?
10. Did this start after a particular incident or seemingly unassociated repair(s)?
If you can tell me some of these things, I can probably getcha close to a cause, without replacing anymore parts. Cause and effect is crutial to solving these problems, so your answers are extremely important. I will check back later today as time allows... If you can "FindMe"
1. have you checked the fuel pressure & volume, both cold and at the time of the problem?
2. What is your engine temp when this occurs?
3. Does this problem seem like it is caused by the amount of time you have been running, roughness of the water, or eng temp?
4. If you are on smooth water and do not hit waves does the boat continue to run normal indefinately?
5. What do you have to do to return to normal operation i.e.(wait 10 mins, eng temp drop to?, wait till completely cold again, etc?)
6. Can you make this happen right away by hitting rough water?
8. What year is the boat, and how many hours on it?
9. Any previous problems with running or other repairs done in the past?
10. Did this start after a particular incident or seemingly unassociated repair(s)?
If you can tell me some of these things, I can probably getcha close to a cause, without replacing anymore parts. Cause and effect is crutial to solving these problems, so your answers are extremely important. I will check back later today as time allows... If you can "FindMe"
09-26-2002 | 05:35 PM
#3
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 213
Likes: 1
From: Shelby Township MI
1 . yes both same hot/cold 39 psi meets spec.
2.eng runs at 145*
3.mostly time running
4.no
5. let boat sit four 3 to 4 hours
6.engine runs flawless in first 30 min
what no 7 ?
8. 1995 19 ft bowrider 80 hrs
9.nope first problem ever with this engine /boat
10.nope just out of the blue but i will say it has gotten worse over timeIE it used to just interminly stutter now it just falls on its face.
Thanks for your time
2.eng runs at 145*
3.mostly time running
4.no
5. let boat sit four 3 to 4 hours
6.engine runs flawless in first 30 min
what no 7 ?
8. 1995 19 ft bowrider 80 hrs
9.nope first problem ever with this engine /boat
10.nope just out of the blue but i will say it has gotten worse over timeIE it used to just interminly stutter now it just falls on its face.
Thanks for your time
09-27-2002 | 01:14 AM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Ok... lets start off simple. 1st make sure there is water in the battery and CLEAN the cables (don't assume they are clean cause they look clean) then follow the ground cable to where it bolts on the motor, remove it and clean both surfaces.... now we should have good power & ground AND MUST HAVE to go any further.
Look in the dist cap for any moisture that may have condensed inside which will usually be more of a problem @ operating temp. If you find some, a trick is to rinse the inside out with WD40, then try it. If thats the prob, then you can replace the cap & rotor. Next... Where is the ECM located? The 2 things that point me to where i am thinking are # 1, what you are describing sounds like a possible connection problem, or high resistance in a connection from the marine environment or contamination, and #2 is movement, vibration, heat or several other things may be helping that connection problem appear. Unplug the main ECM connectors, inspect for caa-caa, blow out with clean dry air and replug them in. 8 out of 10 times, what you describe is just a bad connection, and this will hopefully solve it. And, any connectors on the motor you can unplug and replug (be very careful!) without damaging them will help eliminate the possibility of a component losing contact with the ECM at some point. Dominant sensors in order are Coolant sensor, act sensor (air charge temp- usually in #5 intake runner on port side) and is for fine fuel trim adjustment, and takes over if coolant sensor fails, knock sensor in block, and the connectors to other ign related items (coil, dist, ign module etc.)
These are the first few steps I use for finding problems that start for no apparent reason You would be surprised how many things can be fixed by doing the above FIRST! Also remember, a ECM has a function built in called "adaptive stratagy" that compensates for minor irregularities, wear and tear, or certain sensor failures just to name a few, and ANYTIME you do repairs to a Computer controlled anything, unless you disconnect the battery to dump the learned stratagy from running prior to repairs, tune up, etc.... it won't allow the ECM to start fresh, gathering new, good, accurate data, and if you think about it... the ECM has no way to tell if you did anything or made repairs to replace a defective component, so you have to "let it see for itself" by erasing the previously saved data. Good luck, and will drop in again fri nite.
Look in the dist cap for any moisture that may have condensed inside which will usually be more of a problem @ operating temp. If you find some, a trick is to rinse the inside out with WD40, then try it. If thats the prob, then you can replace the cap & rotor. Next... Where is the ECM located? The 2 things that point me to where i am thinking are # 1, what you are describing sounds like a possible connection problem, or high resistance in a connection from the marine environment or contamination, and #2 is movement, vibration, heat or several other things may be helping that connection problem appear. Unplug the main ECM connectors, inspect for caa-caa, blow out with clean dry air and replug them in. 8 out of 10 times, what you describe is just a bad connection, and this will hopefully solve it. And, any connectors on the motor you can unplug and replug (be very careful!) without damaging them will help eliminate the possibility of a component losing contact with the ECM at some point. Dominant sensors in order are Coolant sensor, act sensor (air charge temp- usually in #5 intake runner on port side) and is for fine fuel trim adjustment, and takes over if coolant sensor fails, knock sensor in block, and the connectors to other ign related items (coil, dist, ign module etc.)
These are the first few steps I use for finding problems that start for no apparent reason You would be surprised how many things can be fixed by doing the above FIRST! Also remember, a ECM has a function built in called "adaptive stratagy" that compensates for minor irregularities, wear and tear, or certain sensor failures just to name a few, and ANYTIME you do repairs to a Computer controlled anything, unless you disconnect the battery to dump the learned stratagy from running prior to repairs, tune up, etc.... it won't allow the ECM to start fresh, gathering new, good, accurate data, and if you think about it... the ECM has no way to tell if you did anything or made repairs to replace a defective component, so you have to "let it see for itself" by erasing the previously saved data. Good luck, and will drop in again fri nite.
Last edited by FindMe; 09-27-2002 at 01:22 AM.
