Any diagrams around on how the water plumbing goes for the engine and chiller?
#1
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From: New york
I have a 468 with a BDS 871 and a chiller. I have been running the boat for over 30 hours now with no problem but I'm pretty sure it isn't plumbed correctly. Is there any diagrams available where I could actually see pictures? I have read many posts on this but it seems to just confuse me. It now has a 2 stage water pump and only picks up water through the lower unit. That feeds my engine and chiller. The chiller gets water at idle. Both the engine and chiller seem to have lower pressure than they should (I think). Engine according to the gauge is about 7 and the chiller around 8-10. Engine temp is always pretty cold (water temp at 140ish and oil temp the same......I think I need an oil thermostat as well). I don't run it hard but want to make it right. Can't seem to find a diagram anywhere. The exhaust is CMI dry exhaust if that makes a difference
#2
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From: OFallon,Mo.
http://teaguecustommarine.com//media...r_plumbing.pdf
Closed cooling. http://teaguecustommarine.com//media...ing_closed.pdf
Closed cooling. http://teaguecustommarine.com//media...ing_closed.pdf
Last edited by picklenjim; 06-29-2016 at 04:46 AM.
#3
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From: New york
Awesome. Thanks so much. Exactly what I was looking for!!! Searched all over the internet and couldn't find anything. So at this point should I switch back to the single stage water pump for the engine? Also is there any diagrams showing the proper ways to plum the water to the engine itself?
#5
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From: New york
Yup! It goes from about 600-1200 rpm. Usually stalls when putting it in reverse but goes into forward pretty good. Just have to time it so it goes into gear at a low enough rpm. The two reasons for wanting to re-plumb it is to make it more user friendly at the docks and to make sure the engine is getting enough water flow. Also if it is at idle speed for to long it seems like it is "loading up" and you have to hold the rpms up at 1500 or so till it clears out
#6
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From: chicago
Sounds like you need some carb tuning, to fix the driveability issue. I had my engines idling on the dyno for quite a while, (as well as a few others), with 65 degree water pumping thru the chiller. Engine idled at 750rpm, like a swiss watch. Intake air temperatures, with water flowing thru the intercooler, vs no water, changed it about 10 degrees at idle.
I believe your two stage pump and setup, simply isn't getting enough water from the pickup in the drive. Going to a thru hull pickup, would get more water flowing. But, if you're gonna do that, I would use the thru hull pickup for the engine, and feed the chiller off the drive pickup. Then, you really don't even need the two stage sea pump.
I believe your two stage pump and setup, simply isn't getting enough water from the pickup in the drive. Going to a thru hull pickup, would get more water flowing. But, if you're gonna do that, I would use the thru hull pickup for the engine, and feed the chiller off the drive pickup. Then, you really don't even need the two stage sea pump.
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From: OFallon,Mo.
#8
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From: New york
I definitely figured I need more water. I'd like to not do a thru hull fitting because I feel it will be easier to do the transom mount. Also I have a 1 stage pump laying around. I also want to try and do this without spending too much money as I sold my house and I'm house searching again. I think my easiest way would be transom mounted pick up for the chiller and pump for the engine. Also thanks picklenjim for the other diagrams.




