Finally getting a slip in salt water with a lift, after boating on a lake for years. Never really flushed the engine, as I was only in freshwater.
Now, on the trailer, I can flush it with ear muffs. On a lift..?

I've seen the T fitting and valve setup. I get it. I really do. I see the Perko $120 one way valve. I like it.

BUUUUUTTTT.

I have a King Cobra. The raw water pump is IN the lower unit.
If I did the above, the raw water pump wouldn't get any water.
It would melt in seconds.

What can I do?!

Thanks guys! And Gals

put a T in the water hose coming from the drive to engine, put shut off valve on the drive side of the T, put a garden hose connection off the T with shut off there, the close valve to drive, hook hose to fitting open that valve and flush away, don't forget to reverse valves before running the boat

... if I did that, it would result in no water going to the raw water pump, and would melt the pump

salt water and open cooling usually doe,s not end well.

Agreed, but there are millions of boats that run open water cooling in salt water. It's brackish if that helps.

I need the boat to last 4 more years. Next one will be converted to closed loop if it doesn't come with it.

NO ONE has a hose hookup for a King Cobra that doesn't involve ear muffs?

if you want to keep it totally stock then you need some sort of ear muffs to flush with or like you said it will burn up the impeller....its actually located in the upper gear housing of the outdrive. I have seen some guys convert to a crank mount style water pump and get rid of the impeller in the outdrive...do a search on the net for King Cobra Raw Water Pump Conversion and you'll see a few. Then you can run the motor on a "T" but i guess the thing to keep an eye on are oil temps in the drive with no impeller in it...

There is no simple quick way to do it, but here is one option:

Intall a ball valve in the line, on each side of the ball valve put a fitting for a hose. The engine side will connect to fresh water for flushing, the outdrive side will have a length of hose that can put overboard while flushing so the impeller can still pump.

As stated above, a crank mounted water pump can be installed and outdrive impeller removed. The hose from the transom will then be under suction and need to be changed to rigid hose if not already. The water will still pull through the drive so no issue there. Then a fresh water connection can be tee'd in.

also millions of rotted blocks&heads from salt.flushing after use helps extend the life and brackish is not as bad BUT,if not completly flushed rotting will happen.

You answered your own question,,,,,On a King Cobra the drive needs to be able to pick up water to not destroy the impeller. Period

Plus you really would want to flush the drive out as well anyway.

Guess it's muff for me!