ProCharger/Whipple fuel delivery from tank(s)…

Seems to be a fairly hot topic right now so I thought I’d throw in a question or two.
It seems that there is plenty of supercharged systems running just fine with the stock 3/8 pickup in most boats. This pickup is actually smaller than 3/8 ID because they just braze/weld a tube into a 3/8 fitting. In most cases, there is probably at least a 5/16 restriction somewhere in there. I do however know of several Whippled and Procharged HP500EFIs running fine with the stock plumbing. Interesting! Chancy??

The setup I currently run on my 575 hp MPI 540 (pre-supercharger) is pretty straight forward and works flawlessly. I run from the tank’s ~3/8 pick-up to a filter/separator then to the stock mechanical pump and then to a large (4”dia x 8”long) Racor separator. This is all with full 3/8 fittings and no 90’s. The internal pickup in the Racor separator has been lengthened about 2” down into the unit. This is about ¾” in diameter. From there, currently, I run another 3/8 line to a standard high pressure pump and then braided 3/8 line to one of the fuel rails (these have two 3/8 crossovers naturally). The excess is dumped through the regulator to a fuel cooler and then right back into the Racor separator. (I have a picture I could email if any interest)
I’m thinking that when I install the new Aeromotive1000 pump in place of the small high pressure pump that I could use ½” line from the Racor to this new pump and then 1/2 “ to the fuel rails. Does this sound logical? Wouldn’t it be using all of the excess fuel that would normally be returned to the tank therefore increasing the normal delivery???
I will only be boosting to 750hp or so.

Also, I have dual IMCO tanks along with their switch valve, which can use any size fitting. Initially I thought that it would be an easy fix to unscrew the fittings on the tank and replace them with larger ones but that is not the case. The fittings are welded to the tanks and the pickups are welded internally to the fitting.
Are there any plumbing tricks that I could possibly use to utilize both 3/8 feeds and run ½ from the valve?

Thanks for any input,
Dave

Read the dirrections on the pump. or visit Aeromotives Webs Site and read the bulletins. http://216.242.145.16/products/content_p.phtml?pk=10

Hey Dave:

How's it going? I read on the other threads that Aeromotive doesn't recommend anything but their 100 micron screen and 1/2" line on the inlet side of their pump. Those recommendations must be for single pump installations. If you are using a high volume mechanical pump as a booster it shouldn't matter.

What is the purpose of the switching valve? Don't you draw from both tanks at once to maintain side to side balance?

If I read you right, it seems as though the big Racor is functioning as a fuel sump and you just have to make sure that the mechanical pump keeps it full. So I guess the objective would be to have a high enough volume mechanical pump and no less than 0 psi in the Racor "sump" @ WOT. I don't know what you are using for a filter/separator but if you have any concern about flow could you run two of them, one off each tank, then the switch, then the 1/2" line?

Sounds like it's going to be a great engine when you're done.

Tom

I don't see the need for TWO filter seperator filters before the electric pump. This adds a lot of flow restriction especially using 3/8 line. The mechanical pump certainly helps though. Aeromotive does recommend 1/2" line all the way from tank to the pump (as you said hard to do). 3/8" can be sufficient if the restriction to flow is minimal and short. I would eliminate one of the f/w seperators and install a 100 micron Aeromotive filter AFTER the Aeromotive pump (injector insurance!). I recommend you call AEromotive & talk to Brett in the tech dept about your particular needs. He will help you, that's a promise!!

My whipple setup uses -8 line from the tank through the water seperator then to the pump, After the pump I have a -8 line feeding the 10 Micron filter and then to the fuel rail. I asked the builder about the -8 lin and he said the tank inlet was smaller and that is why the -10 line was not used. He said it would be fine. I ran it all summer - no problems. It is arround a 700 HP application. Possibly the -10 size is needed for the 1,000 Hp applications it is rated for??

I would think that you would run the 10 micron filter after the pump for injector protection. Talk to Aeromotive and get their recommendations.

I agree that the ENGINE does not need more than the AN-8, it is the PUMP that wants the AN-10 to prevent cavitation of the fuel in low supply flow situations. Aereation injects air into the fuel and heats the fuel going to the engine. This can cause a lean condition, which none of us like. I resisted the AN-10 idea also until I learned why from Brett at Aeromotive, it was quite an education in fuel management. As I said in another thread....sometimes ya' just gotta have faith and do it!!

Tank...AN-10...filter/sep....AN-10...pump...AN-10....100 mic filter...AN-10 ....EFI regulator...(or 2-AN-8's to carb with dual supply ) ....AN-8 return/bypass....to tank or wye for twins to tank.
This is the Aeromotive way. A fuel cooler may be used also before or after the micron filter.

Nordic Heat,
I'm bringing this back up after searching for fuel line sizing.

I'm putting a whipple on my 500efi. A 2000 Heat, I pulled the anti-siphon fitting out of my tank and it sure looks like a 1/2" hole to me. The barb on the anti-siphon vave is 3/8 but the tank looks like it takes a 1/2 npt. Am I missing something.

Tim

Hey Blown Formula, Are you sure about that order?
The order Bret told me was NOT to suck thru the Filter/sep.
He told me
Tank...1/2" line...10mic filter...Pump....100 mic filter or Filter/sep.
He told me NOT to use 100 mic filter Before the pump. Use the S.Steel 10 mic.
He also told me that if your using a filter/sep after the pump. you don't need the 100 mic filter.

Its also best to return to your tank. Most people return to the inlet of the pump or the separator. This has potential tocause cavitation so it's best to return to the tank if possible.

I just was this kit that would make it easy to return to the tank via the fill line:

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...77&prmenbr=361