What is the benefit with using a dry sump oiling system , almost no one use these but it seems risky because the oil is kept in another place and it is pumped in smaller amounts to where it needs to be. Can anyone here with experience say anything.I am planning a major engine room rebuild restructure and want to put this into my plan but need to understand it more.

Less parasitic loss, more reliable in instances where g force could make normal pickup lose suction ( rough water or cornering ).

id consider it a superior setup.

It's all good until that little toothed belt says "quit", good idea for builds in the higher hp range. In cars it allows a slightly lower center of gravity. Definitely added complexity. Probably it's better than running a vacuum pump. Like to hear from the experts on this subject.

A simple oil PSI switch and circuit will protect the engine in the event the belt comes off or breaks.

To the op, I've got a dry sumo system on my pantera. I built the system piece by piece and with much consultation.
some bullet points:

-the only downside to a dry sump is the initial cost.
-take advantage of a "closed" crankcase so you can pull crankcase vacuum.
-install a Peterson vacuum relief valve in one valve cover (set to 5 to 7 inches of vacuum) to regulate crankcase vacuum.
-install a Peterson positive PSI "blow off" valve in the opposite valve cover to relieve crankcase pressure should the crankcase go "positive". Don't want to push a seal out and put the oil in the bilge
-run -16 feed and return lines from the tank to the pump and -12 lines to and from
the engine.
-i have a 5 stage Barnes pump. I supply stage and 4 scavenging stages from the pan.
-check out Saldana racing products for a tank. High quality, made to order for 1/3 of the price of a Peterson tank.
- check out C-line for the pan.
-run the tank at 2/3 full when the engine is running.
-my system holds 18 quarts of oil.
-wire a oil PSI switch and circuit (similar to a mercruiser circuit) to kill the electric fuel pump or the ignition should the belt come off to save the engine from a no oil meltdown.
-belt should be tightened so that you can twist it 90* when cold.

Id post some pics but I'm too damn dumb to figure it out.

We went with an external wet sump oil pump and a vacuum pump. The single VP creates negative pressure in both engines and the oil fumes are vented to a catch can that is vented out of the engine compartment. This set up keeps the bilge spotless. Both engines use the same vacuum pump with the engines connected with a jump hose. There is an alarm light on the dash if the oil pressure would drop in either engine and a vaccum gauge on the dash.

vintage
only way i found to post pic
go advanced, bottom of reply box, click on paperclip in the tool bar
haven't seen any activity on your thread since the format change
is the boat up and running

Thanks outonsafari!
Boat is pretty much done.

Okay this seems complicated but no to bad, but what I want to know is if anyone makes a kit with everything you need to do this.For big block chevy

which pump did you use, engine driven or electric.