sorry for the same old question, I searched and found million replays and need Direction from the experts. 1999 ultimate warlock 28 sxt cat with procharger 502 750hp. I'm doing transom, bulkhead and floor to access. Do I need to use epoxy? Or can I use the vinylester, I lke the vinylester have used it before in the past, also would like to gelcoat when done? Also, does anyone know what ultimate warlock used for there hulls poly? Vinylester? I will b starting my project soon and will b asking you guys questions and posting pics along the way.
thank dan.

i still like VE for nearly everything i do unless its a structural bottom repair or race boat or it fills some specific need. Epoxy carries better physicals but its at a level that just isnt necessary in the real world here plus its plain a pain the the azz if you dont have a lot of experience with it. The boat was probably built with poly anyway, you could use either Ve or Epoxy i just dont see the advantage in Epoxy for a transom job. There are a few polys that are suitable but the elongation and overall properties are well worth the little bit of extra $$$ for VE.

VE, it is thanks Dave!!

ok, bedded transom and am ready to lay some VE and 1708 have some qs.
1. After I have layed down a sheet of 1708, what is layup schedual like after that, can I go right over with another sheet and how many at once is the max?
2. when I have a layup dry what is the prep before more glass? Do I need to sand or just wipe down with asitone?
3. When I thicken my VE with cabisol for fillets, do I add the amount of hardener based off of wheight of VE and added cabisol or wheight of VE before cabisol is added?

1. Laminate the fiberglass wet on wet, do not let cure between layers. for transoms i do two layers of 1708 and three layers of tabbing but that is with each face layer extending enough to be a tabbing joint itself giving five layers at the edges.

2. i always do a quick dress up with a grinder to de-burr the surface but if you are re laminating within the first couple days of initial cure thats all you need to do. If its past a week you should open up the surface pretty good with some 36 grit.

3. catylize only to the weight of the resin

Dave, your knowledge has gottin me this far cant thank you enough!!!
Where do I send the cases of beer!!!

One last Q, can I use 1.5 csm to water proof my underfloor knees, brackets, and under side of my floor or do I have to use 1708 in order to b fully water proofed. All my knees and brackets are made out of 3/4th ply.

yes you can do that if its a non structural component.

. . . . can you even send beer through the mail?? lol

Why not, Iv sent much worse? Lol, what kind of beer and where do I send it!!!
Thanks again for all the help!!!

On my 1999 ultimate warlock sxt, all the floor supports and knees where just 3/4th ply with light coat of resin and tabbed and nailed into stringers? Ends of stringers were cut for water drainage with no resin what so ever. Was my boat built on a Friday or was it simply built to last a short time? Factory cockpit cover doesnt even cover the 4 by 6 inch vents over gas tanks and rear transom, letting water run through the vents and sit behind tanks first day she was left outside with cover fully snapped in?