maintenance steel trailer in salt
#1
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From: St-Hyacinthe, quebec, canada
never dunked a trailer in salt ...
i have a myco C channel steel trailer.
What kind of maintenance is needed on steel trailer dunked in salt water? besides hosing it down with fresh water after ?
do you need to rewire each year? do you have to change light assembly each year? do you need to take apart caliper to clean and grease each year? what about wheel bearings? even when supposed to be sealed, there is always water in them...
I just wish to go to florida once next fall and wondering if i should simply launch the boat on trailer or spend like 600$ to lauch / retrieve it, wich i feel is a lot of money each time you want to run the boat!
Any tips from the salt water experienced crew?
i have a myco C channel steel trailer.
What kind of maintenance is needed on steel trailer dunked in salt water? besides hosing it down with fresh water after ?
do you need to rewire each year? do you have to change light assembly each year? do you need to take apart caliper to clean and grease each year? what about wheel bearings? even when supposed to be sealed, there is always water in them...
I just wish to go to florida once next fall and wondering if i should simply launch the boat on trailer or spend like 600$ to lauch / retrieve it, wich i feel is a lot of money each time you want to run the boat!
Any tips from the salt water experienced crew?
#2
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Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 269
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From: Miami, FL
Depends on a lot.
- Type of rotors you have on the trailer? Assuming not stainless, are they coated with anything to protect them?
- Rinse trailer thoroughly with Salt-Away (preferably before saltwater dries on the trailer)
- Make sure you hit the calipers/rotors with Salt Away
- Have waterproof LED lights installed on trailer (this will save you a lot of headache)
- Might need to consider replacing hardware (bolts, nuts, etc) if they begin to rust
- Depending on what your bunks are made of, cloth fabric and wood might soak in some of the salt, so watch for rust in those areas
And realize that your trailer will definitely start rusting faster now, no matter how much scrubbing and rinsing you do. I had a white steel trailer turn yellow in 6 months, made me sick to look at it.
Shouldn't have a problem with bearings if your seals are holding up. I'd just make sure you keep them greased regularly. I'm just now putting new bearings in mine, last replaced a few years back, but I've towed several thousand miles between then and now and was starting to get just a slight bit of play in them. All but one outer bearing have looked new so far, so I'm probably being over cautious.
- Type of rotors you have on the trailer? Assuming not stainless, are they coated with anything to protect them?
- Rinse trailer thoroughly with Salt-Away (preferably before saltwater dries on the trailer)
- Make sure you hit the calipers/rotors with Salt Away
- Have waterproof LED lights installed on trailer (this will save you a lot of headache)
- Might need to consider replacing hardware (bolts, nuts, etc) if they begin to rust
- Depending on what your bunks are made of, cloth fabric and wood might soak in some of the salt, so watch for rust in those areas
And realize that your trailer will definitely start rusting faster now, no matter how much scrubbing and rinsing you do. I had a white steel trailer turn yellow in 6 months, made me sick to look at it.
Shouldn't have a problem with bearings if your seals are holding up. I'd just make sure you keep them greased regularly. I'm just now putting new bearings in mine, last replaced a few years back, but I've towed several thousand miles between then and now and was starting to get just a slight bit of play in them. All but one outer bearing have looked new so far, so I'm probably being over cautious.
#6
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From: St-Hyacinthe, quebec, canada
cant remember how much per foot exactly but the one time i check it was in that area... or maybe was less like close to 10$ a foot x 45 so 450 US plus 33% money rate exchange was close to 600$ canadian...
#7
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Joined: Jul 2015
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From: Atlantic Southeast
Salt Terminator is more cost efficient than Salt-Away. I buy online, cheaper than picking up in box store locally.
If you have anything other than SS brake calipers get ready for them to rust fast. When installing a SS caliper pull the piston seal and coat the mating surfaces with silicone, keeps the water out. While the pistons in the SS calipers are SS as well, water intrusion in that area will still cause salt build up which can seize the piston.
If you have anything other than SS brake calipers get ready for them to rust fast. When installing a SS caliper pull the piston seal and coat the mating surfaces with silicone, keeps the water out. While the pistons in the SS calipers are SS as well, water intrusion in that area will still cause salt build up which can seize the piston.
#8
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Merritt Island, FL
I have a C channel steel Myco with DRUM brakes that gets dunked now and then. I carry one of those cheap $10 pump sprayers with me with Salt-away mixed in it. After I dunk the trailer I spray it down with the mixture right at the ramp, also I have taken out the plugs so I can spray in the brakes. When I get back home with the trailer I then wash like normal.
Lights are sealed LED's.
Been doing this now for 2-3 years, the Sun has taken more of a toll on the trailer then the salt. I have had to buff it out. So far you would not believe this is a 18 year old trailer, and the brakes still work. (Hard to believe). If you have SS disk that would be much better, I know this year I'll replace the brakes but big deal.
Being a C channel makes a big difference, you can get to everything, even my springs still look good. Its all about preventive. Now if I trailer ed 100% (We live on the water) I would get a aluminum but if you are coming down for a visit its not like the salt is acid. Its all about flushing, with my motors I flush 15-20 before I run salt-away. I also flush the drives.
Oh, and have been told by many Dawn dish soap works as well if not better then salt-away. In motor as well.
Lights are sealed LED's.
Been doing this now for 2-3 years, the Sun has taken more of a toll on the trailer then the salt. I have had to buff it out. So far you would not believe this is a 18 year old trailer, and the brakes still work. (Hard to believe). If you have SS disk that would be much better, I know this year I'll replace the brakes but big deal.
Being a C channel makes a big difference, you can get to everything, even my springs still look good. Its all about preventive. Now if I trailer ed 100% (We live on the water) I would get a aluminum but if you are coming down for a visit its not like the salt is acid. Its all about flushing, with my motors I flush 15-20 before I run salt-away. I also flush the drives.
Oh, and have been told by many Dawn dish soap works as well if not better then salt-away. In motor as well.
Last edited by Wildman_grafix; 01-22-2018 at 10:19 AM.
#9
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 760
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From: Jacksonville, FL
You have that blinged out Myco trailer under the sonic right? You’ll be fine, just rinse it off extra thoroughly with Salt Away or Dawn. Myco uses high quality stuff, the lighting and brakes and axles aren’t going to die in saltwater.
#10
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 9
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
How much would it cost to have it dropped in by a travel lift? Could you not set up an arrangement with a local marine w. a lift to take it off the trailer and pop it in the water for you? Surely it'll be cheaper than $600... then just hose the boat and trailer off once it's reloaded and headed back North!


