after visiting the local merc and Suzy dealers and everyone telling us to go with Suzuki due to many more dealers and easier parts availability and repairs, there is only one merc dealer in the country. I’m looking for some feedback on the Suzuki’s, thanks in avdance for any info rm

Change the anodes and T stats on the Zukes religiously and they will live forever. I run twin df250s and they have been great

how often do you change yours. How many hours on your engines. And do you run the snot out of them like I plan to

250 hours a year (its our recreational boat, that’s the best we can do haha), 800 total. Three times a year, they only last about 75 hours before they are gone and the T stats get gummed up about 5 hours after I change the anodes from junk falling off the old anodes when removed.

we keep them under 5k rpm if we can

we will put about a 1000 hours in them in 7 or 8 months. Can we run them without the t stats? I’m in bathtub warm water here in the carribean
that’s crazy you need to change them that often. How long does it take to change a t stay on them? What do they cost? Thx for the heads up, rm

hey glassdave how you doing bro. I have a low hour rude three hundred and saw a small I think about 16 footer with a deep V hull at a marina a couple months back. It’s just a bare hull with no deck.

As soon as I get my two bigger boats sorted I was going to see if I can buy that hull section it and stretch it to make. 21 hull to a plug to make a mold.

Im still going to talk to the branch of government that handles importation of vehicles to see if I can buy just a hull in the states and have it all rigged up for my rude 300 and shipped down. But they have some crazy import laws to protect the lame azz Colombia
boat manufacturers.

Im looking at this used small deep v hull as a back up plan.

you need to run any 4stroke with the stats, they are not like old school 2strokes. Maybe 35$ per stat

it takes 20 minutes to change all four stats on both motors, anodes are a little longer because there are a lot of them. It Is probably more time based than run hour based though, corrosion never sleeps!

I had an 07 250 pop a head gasket. I suspect it was either due to the flushing valve not checking and leaking or the half moon key slipping out when I changed the impellers and overheating it. But it didn’t happen right after that.

Regardless, earlier engines were more prone to this. I bought a take off from a repower shop very reasonably to replace it. Other than that they’ve been great. I did all of the anodes on mine once.

I got 3 new batteries last year and the engines have been very happy since. I think most late model outboards are sensitive to battery issues.

Sometimes they will vapor lock. I’ve got a recirc pump to the transom where the fuel water seps are that helps. And the issue can usually be beat in a few minutes. But you have to be smart, because they might die when shifting if it’s hot out and you’ve been running.

i like the 300s a lot. They have a wideband O2 sensor so they can lean burn under light load, getting even better fuel economy. I think in 2012 they got a speedy style lower unit. They have a 200rpm higher redline, 6300 vs 6100 for the 250.

im interested in making the upgrade if I can find a nice pair. 250s are pushing my pad bottom Marlago ~8000lbs to 53mph with big diameter Suzuki props turning out and bottom paint.