Using tabs to level out boat
#1
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Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 102
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From: LOTO
I recently purchased a 2006 32 SS and curious in driving in rough conditions were I should have the tabs set at? At 0 the front end bounced a lot. I played with it some and seemed like at 3 the front end leveled out.
#2
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Joined: Jun 2015
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From: Miami, FL
You need to first figure out at what level they are level with the hull, this will be your baseline. From there, you can start figuring out what works best for you. On my 28zx, between 2-3 has my tabs level, I marked the trim indicator so I know. If I want to drag my tabs to keep the nose down, I lower them to 3 or 4.
#5
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Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 193
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From: Harrison Twp, MI
Find what's level with the bottom.
On my Fountain its 3 on the indicator. Operate the tabs between level and 1 number down in choppy conditions to calm the bouncing down and smooth the ride. On my fountain that would be between 3 and 4 on the indicators.
Play with it and find what the boat likes. No need to bury the tabs. With 280's on that boat it shouldn't take a ton of input the smooth things out.
On my Fountain its 3 on the indicator. Operate the tabs between level and 1 number down in choppy conditions to calm the bouncing down and smooth the ride. On my fountain that would be between 3 and 4 on the indicators.
Play with it and find what the boat likes. No need to bury the tabs. With 280's on that boat it shouldn't take a ton of input the smooth things out.
#6
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Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 307
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From: Cincinnati , Oh
Pretty sure on the SS hulls Sunsation has stops on the k planes to stop them at level with the bottom of the boat, Mine will not go above that. Most of the time I don't need more than 1/2 to 1 on the gauge.
#8
It was Reggie Fountain that said to always run your tabs at neutral, not all the way up. As such, that's always what I have done with my boats. It's "free" extra hull and stability, that won't cost you speed.
And you should only need 1-3 ticks on the tabs to level the boat side to side when needed. 4 at most.
There have been a number of posts on this topic that you can find with a search.
Also, once you really get the feel for your boat, try using the drives at different angles to level the boat and leave the tabs at neutral. If the port side of the bow is down, punch the starboard side drive out 1-2 ticks more than the port. This leverage that the SB's prop exudes will teeter the port side bow back up to level. Again, this takes a while to master, but it's how the pros used to do it, especially in racing.
And you should only need 1-3 ticks on the tabs to level the boat side to side when needed. 4 at most.
There have been a number of posts on this topic that you can find with a search.
Also, once you really get the feel for your boat, try using the drives at different angles to level the boat and leave the tabs at neutral. If the port side of the bow is down, punch the starboard side drive out 1-2 ticks more than the port. This leverage that the SB's prop exudes will teeter the port side bow back up to level. Again, this takes a while to master, but it's how the pros used to do it, especially in racing.
#9
Also, once you really get the feel for your boat, try using the drives at different angles to level the boat and leave the tabs at neutral. If the port side of the bow is down, punch the starboard side drive out 1-2 ticks more than the port. This leverage that the SB's prop exudes will teeter the port side bow back up to level. Again, this takes a while to master, but it's how the pros used to do it, especially in racing.
#10
Still you see a lot of race boat shots in rough water with the tabs down below neutral. Its not like they're buried but they are definitely below neutral.



