Removing Bottom Paint
#1
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From: NorCal / Tahoe
I have ablative bottom paint on a new to me boat. I want to remove it and go back to gel coat. I have read mixed reviews on doing that cost effectively. Anyone have a vendor in norcal or independent guy that can do that type of work. I have no interest in doing a DIY on this.
#2
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From: KY
Don't know a nocal guy but did the same thing to mine
I use Interlux VC Performance epoxy. The hull needs to be sanded with 80 grit and remove all paint. It can be applied to gel or bare fiber glass but not paint. I applied 3 coats and like the real hard surface.
Draw backs, the epoxy paint is not UV resistant, so if any part of it is in the sun, it will yellow over time.
So if used, use it all over, but once dine, use some Briteside epoxy above the water line
I use Interlux VC Performance epoxy. The hull needs to be sanded with 80 grit and remove all paint. It can be applied to gel or bare fiber glass but not paint. I applied 3 coats and like the real hard surface.
Draw backs, the epoxy paint is not UV resistant, so if any part of it is in the sun, it will yellow over time.
So if used, use it all over, but once dine, use some Briteside epoxy above the water line
#4
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From: NorCal / Tahoe
Thanks. I prefer the boat was dry stored rather in a slip though I have access to a slip in brackish water. I will need the hard bottom paint since I also boat in Lake Tahoe and they do not allow the ablative stuff.
#7
The big question though is , what sort of prep was done on that (finish) paint that you want to remove ? Unless you can ask the original owner you may be in for a world of nasty surprises.
If the bottom was properly de-waxed and abraded and then barrier coated it's not going to be an inexpensive process to remove. Many people in the past have found that their bottom was only improperly roughed up and then the anti-fouling was applied. Upon removing the paint they discovered that the the bottom had awful scratching and the pigment of the paint had not only discolored the gelcoat but penetrated the deep scratches as well. .
It's also very difficult to sand off existing layers of paint without doing further damage to the gelcoat that you want to preserve and maybe even polish / wax.
Not an enviable job whether done by someone else or you .
If the bottom was properly de-waxed and abraded and then barrier coated it's not going to be an inexpensive process to remove. Many people in the past have found that their bottom was only improperly roughed up and then the anti-fouling was applied. Upon removing the paint they discovered that the the bottom had awful scratching and the pigment of the paint had not only discolored the gelcoat but penetrated the deep scratches as well. .
It's also very difficult to sand off existing layers of paint without doing further damage to the gelcoat that you want to preserve and maybe even polish / wax.
Not an enviable job whether done by someone else or you .
#8
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From: NorCal / Tahoe
I think I have come to terms that ablative paint needs to come off and hard bottom paint on. I dont plan on getting gel coat anymore. Owner doesnt k ow when or how or how many times bottom has been painted. It's a 1995 after all.
#9
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From: Here and There
+1. Works surprisingly well. Be sure to cover up trailer paint and wear protective gloves/clothing and eye protection. You get some oven off that drips in your face you will remember it!!
#10
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From: Somerset ma
Im glad the formula I have is only 20’ ,cause removing the paint with a scraper was an awful job.if I’m in the market again and boat will be trailered in and out,no bottom paint will be a requirement


