Roll and Tip paint
#1
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Has anyone had any luck with rolling/tipping paint? I’m trying it now, but it looks nothing like the videos and pics I’ve been researching online. I think it’s coming out looking like orange peel and fish eye, but it’s also flashing extremely fast. I’ve been using a 10:1 paint and reducer mix like TotalBoat , the paint manufacturer recommends and it’s a one part poilyurethan paint.
I have not place indoors to do this work and I don’t want to spray again because it creates a mess and the neighbors along with their pets were high for a week last time. Oops...
Any tips, tricks, recommendations?
I have not place indoors to do this work and I don’t want to spray again because it creates a mess and the neighbors along with their pets were high for a week last time. Oops...
Any tips, tricks, recommendations?
#2
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From: evergreen, colorado
Use a two part urethane , Interlux perfection. It's bullet proof. 90% is prepping and cleaning the surface before painting. If you are doing a larger surface area you may need help so there is not too much time between rolling and tipping. Use a foam roller and a good Badger brush. Watch the humidity level and the temperature.
#3
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Use a two part urethane , Interlux perfection. It's bullet proof. 90% is prepping and cleaning the surface before painting. If you are doing a larger surface area you may need help so there is not too much time between rolling and tipping. Use a foam roller and a good Badger brush. Watch the humidity level and the temperature.
#5
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From: Grosse Pointe Woods, Mi
I do alot of varnishing on my old chriscraft. What I found was the best finish was using a 1/8 nap foam roller with no tipping. Comes out like a mirror. Just going to a 3/16 roller did not give good results. This is 3 coats just sanding with scotchbrite pads.
#6
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From: evergreen, colorado
Varnishing is different than polyurethanes. You do not sand the final coat of two part polyurethanes. Their chemistry allows a clear coat layer to rise to the surface as they cure. This is why they need to be tipped. The layer is very thin and is not suitable for sanding and polishing.
#7
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Varnishing is different than polyurethanes. You do not sand the final coat of two part polyurethanes. Their chemistry allows a clear coat layer to rise to the surface as they cure. This is why they need to be tipped. The layer is very thin and is not suitable for sanding and polishing.
#8
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From: Grosse Pointe Woods, Mi
Varnishing is different than polyurethanes. You do not sand the final coat of two part polyurethanes. Their chemistry allows a clear coat layer to rise to the surface as they cure. This is why they need to be tipped. The layer is very thin and is not suitable for sanding and polishing.
#9
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Actually your not supposed to sand and buff varnish-it removes the uv layers that rise to the surface. My point was the short nap roller leaves a very smooth surface that flattens out very quickly. The brush strokes cause deeper grooves that must settle even further. I was shocked at the difference in finish between the 1/8 and 3/16.
#10
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From: evergreen, colorado
Look at the Interlux videos. You should be using a solid foam "weinie" roller or a 1/16" foam roller. Tipping is not brushing! You are just touching the air bubbles with the brush tip to let them release. There should be no brush marks. I have done four full size boats up to 28' with this method and excellent results. It is all about technique and product.


