Wellcraft Scarab race boats mods
#1
I see a lot of pictures of Wellcraft Scarab's, mostly 30' that were raced back in the day. These were Wellcrafts, not LS boats. For the people that did race them, what modifications were done to the hulls, transoms, stringers, if any? We all know that Wellcraft was pretty sloppy in their construction of their boats, so did anybody take the time to redo anything?
#4
I saw this picture today of "Insanity" posted by scarab insanity on the Scarab Race Boat thread and wondered if any mods were done to these types of hulls. It looks like a Wellcraft hull more so than a LS hull.


#5
that is a Wellcraft but I don't know of any mods that were ever done to the boats they were new at the time and it was production class so the speeds weren't that fast that is the only one I have ever seen that was raced from Wellcraft back in the day. Al the boats raced on the west coast were LS Scarabs.
#6
What are you actually looking for? Are you putting one together to race? Do you have a rotted out 30 and looking for direction to fix it "better". For pleasure boat and day to day use I don't believe structurally there is any issues to be concerned with if in good shape. Remember we are speaking about 40+ year old boats.
I added 57" of lifting strake to my 30. Made a world of difference.
I added 57" of lifting strake to my 30. Made a world of difference.
#7
What are you actually looking for? Are you putting one together to race? Do you have a rotted out 30 and looking for direction to fix it "better". For pleasure boat and day to day use I don't believe structurally there is any issues to be concerned with if in good shape. Remember we are speaking about 40+ year old boats.
I added 57" of lifting strake to my 30. Made a world of difference.
I added 57" of lifting strake to my 30. Made a world of difference.
#8
That should get you to the 80's. A lot of people say their boat does 80, but actually doing it is a different story.
I believe you should be fine just replacing what was there with quality materials. Another thing that I forgot that really made the boat better in the rough stuff was bonding the hull to the deck. I partially removed the rub rail, cleaned the gap with acetone and squirted West SIX10 epoxy in the gap between the hull and deck and then screwed it back together. This eliminated a lot of flex in the hull sides. (don't know if this was the right way to do it, but I'm glad I did)
I believe you should be fine just replacing what was there with quality materials. Another thing that I forgot that really made the boat better in the rough stuff was bonding the hull to the deck. I partially removed the rub rail, cleaned the gap with acetone and squirted West SIX10 epoxy in the gap between the hull and deck and then screwed it back together. This eliminated a lot of flex in the hull sides. (don't know if this was the right way to do it, but I'm glad I did)
#9
Registered
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 45
Likes: 34
From: Utah
I would also love to hear about any mods besides blueprinting and sharpening edges. I’m looking at getting a 38kv but most of my boating is at 3-6000 feet of altitude so every little bit helps. Hopefully team archer throws out some secrets!
#10
Registered
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 89
Likes: 12
From: Somerset ma
That should get you to the 80's. A lot of people say their boat does 80, but actually doing it is a different story.
I believe you should be fine just replacing what was there with quality materials. Another thing that I forgot that really made the boat better in the rough stuff was bonding the hull to the deck. I partially removed the rub rail, cleaned the gap with acetone and squirted West SIX10 epoxy in the gap between the hull and deck and then screwed it back together. This eliminated a lot of flex in the hull sides. (don't know if this was the right way to do it, but I'm glad I did)
I believe you should be fine just replacing what was there with quality materials. Another thing that I forgot that really made the boat better in the rough stuff was bonding the hull to the deck. I partially removed the rub rail, cleaned the gap with acetone and squirted West SIX10 epoxy in the gap between the hull and deck and then screwed it back together. This eliminated a lot of flex in the hull sides. (don't know if this was the right way to do it, but I'm glad I did)
rookie
you have any pointers on the epoxy? Did you have any problems with it running out of the seam?
I have a formula that I was planning on glueing the seam.i already pulled the rub rail and filled the old holes with west systems two part.i was on the fence between 5200 or epoxy.
sorry again for the thread highjack and thank you for any insight rookie
keith




