I've read several threads over the years and kept a diary of what to do in this instance. Please grade my checklist and feel free to add anything I'm missing and/or constructively comment.


1996 Merc. 7.4 MPI LX's with B1's. Drives, one engine and hull 406 hrs, other engine 155 hrs. No inherent issues when changing oil and drive fluid in January.


Replacing

-Bilge pump, last done 2016 and while I can get at it easier.

-Steering pins to SS before loosening issue.

-Shift cable kits.

-Exhaust Y pipes as lower mounting holes are corroded off.

-Transom to raw water pump hoses.

-Drive lube hoses from gimbal housing to drive.

-Raw water inlet hose from drive to gimbal housing.

-Drive trim pump hoses due to access issues when engines installed.

-SB starter due to access issues when engine installed.

-Motor mounts due to age.

-Drive lube manifold assembly through gimbal housings.

-Top of water pumps small 90* hoses, if I can find them. Both are crunchy and hard.

-SB gimbal housing as somehow there's a ping pong size corrosion hole through it below the water pickup hose. The remainder of the unit is perfect so the local failure baffles me.

It'll get a new gimbal bearing so I figure on doing a non serviceable unit on the port side as well. ***Currently seeking gimbal housing***

-All associated gaskets etc. to perform the above replacements.


Considering

-Couplers depending on mechanic's opinion of condition. Or should I replace just because of age?


Pending

-Oil leak identification by mechanic of either front and/or rear mains or oil pan gaskets after using VR1 oil. Both engines bone dry prior to its use.


Grateful for any insight you can lend!

I'd replace the couplers.
I don't see how the VR1 could cause an oil leak. Just a coincidence.
I'd say you have just as much of chance at having a new starter go bad as the old one.

Its pretty easy to do the gimble bearing with the motor out

Noted thanks!

The engines were dry as bones before going VR1 and the bilge grew oily from that point on. I'm guessing such old seals weren't compatible with synthetics or were adversely affected by synthetic due to their age.


10-4 most likely going to need one in the replacement gimbal housing anyway so might as well do both.

Good list but replacing transom assemblies at $2k each might be cheaper/easier and then all is new.

TA’s are $3k, Gimbal Housings $1700 and I found new for $1k. All remaining is cherry so just figure on fortifying the failure points (steer pins) and replacing rubber bits. Trying to make sure my piecemeal list is complete.

I found a new Bravo Magnum TA on OSO for $2k then sold old one for $600 so net $1400, all new. Best option.

Sweet not a single decent TA or GH available (anywhere) up to the point of when I made the new GH purchase Friday.

Yes doing the port gimble bearing while all is apart since starboard is getting the new gimble housing with bearing preinstalled. Figured on them both being fresh and using non-serviceable.

Transom and 1 engine room only 4' stringer are complete, all through holes resin'd. OE cored hole in stringer for outboard drain and bilge hose wasn't sealed from factory which resulted in rot.

Sent it over to have the bunks moved inboard since it was an easier and less stressful lift while derigged.

Rigger wasn't available yet so it's currently at upholsterer having the headliner and walls recovered due to droop.