1990 Mercruiser 454 magnum overheating, stumped!
#1
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From: Washington
‘90 Mirage Merc 454 Magnum
Changed thermostat twice, first 160 degree then with a 142 degree. New temp sending unit, new sea water pump. Still getting hot. I don’t get it, please help!
Changed thermostat twice, first 160 degree then with a 142 degree. New temp sending unit, new sea water pump. Still getting hot. I don’t get it, please help!
#2
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From: Indiana
Did old seawater pump come apart? Debri plugging system?(coolers) Engine circulating pump ever been replaced? Bravoitis?
Disconnect hoses and back flush system with water hose. Visually inspect cooler for debris/blockage.
I guess first thing, are you sure it is getting hot and not just a bad gauge reading?
Disconnect hoses and back flush system with water hose. Visually inspect cooler for debris/blockage.
I guess first thing, are you sure it is getting hot and not just a bad gauge reading?
#3
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From: Washington
Did old seawater pump come apart? Debri plugging system?(coolers) Engine circulating pump ever been replaced? Bravoitis?
Disconnect hoses and back flush system with water hose. Visually inspect cooler for debris/blockage.
I guess first thing, are you sure it is getting hot and not just a bad gauge reading?
Disconnect hoses and back flush system with water hose. Visually inspect cooler for debris/blockage.
I guess first thing, are you sure it is getting hot and not just a bad gauge reading?
#4
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From: On A Dirt Floor
Bravoitis:
https://www.google.com/search?q=brav...&client=safari
btw: if there is any scarring/scoring/grooving that the the impeller sides and tips will go against, this can cause eater flow and psi issues. Therefore, Sometimes more than replacing just the impeller is needed.
https://www.google.com/search?q=brav...&client=safari
btw: if there is any scarring/scoring/grooving that the the impeller sides and tips will go against, this can cause eater flow and psi issues. Therefore, Sometimes more than replacing just the impeller is needed.
Last edited by SB; 05-25-2021 at 12:27 PM.
#6
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From: Washington
#7
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If it had bravoitis, wouldn’t I not be getting good flow exiting the exhaust?
#8
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From: Indiana
Shoot the temp sending unit and several places around thermostat housing to see how it compares to gauge reading. Then try to follow the water flow : inlet hose -through coolers-to stat housing- to circulating pump. From stat housing to manifolds . See if you find a hot spot indicating restriction.
I think Bravoitis shows up at higher RPM. Pulls enough water at idle to stay cool, but at higher load doesn't have enough volume to keep engine cool.
I think Bravoitis shows up at higher RPM. Pulls enough water at idle to stay cool, but at higher load doesn't have enough volume to keep engine cool.
#9
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Connecting a water press gauge to block drain (via hose) might help determine if water is having trouble getting in or out.
Another "trick" is to temporarily install clear hose in place of various black water hoses and see if air is getting pulled in at higher rpms.
Another "trick" is to temporarily install clear hose in place of various black water hoses and see if air is getting pulled in at higher rpms.


