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Molner PWR adder rods VS Eagle H beams

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Old 07-16-2021 | 02:22 PM
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Default Molner PWR adder rods VS Eagle H beams

Im putting together a 468 Twin turbo engines Because of the excessive piston to wall clearances in one motor my engine builder cant hone the cylinder walls and reuse my old TRW slugs. He is recommending going with JE pistons in both engines ( I agree with it). One engine will have a brand new Molnar internally balanced crank. Since were doing new pistons, he is recommending going with new rods and ditching the 7/16 LS7 rods I had in there. The new rods will be full floaters vs the old ones which were press pins. He mentioned going with Eagle 6.385 rods with 2000 bolts. For a few hundred dollars more I can get Molnar 6.385 Pwr Adr rods. Keep in mind that initially Im shooting for 600 hp at maybe 5 psi of boost out of this engine but want the ability to turn up the boost later to tops of 10 psi. Any body any input on the Eagle Rods VS the Molnar's? I read the forum discussion about "rods" but that topic was 5 years old and quality procedures may have changed since then.

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Old 07-16-2021 | 03:05 PM
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why do you need to replace the one crank ? does the other engine have eagle crank and rods
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Old 07-18-2021 | 04:04 PM
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Both will get the job done strength wise. The last 3 sets of eagle rods I have used this year have needed the big-end resized due to being out of round and at the large side of the specification, which I don't like as it reduces bearing insert crush. All of the small ends where .0005 too tight to work with floating pins and one of those sets for a Small block had a massive issue with the wrist pin bore being .015 out of parallel (over 1.5 " measurement length) with the big end bore on 5 of the 8 rods. The next set eagle sent wasn't much better and I had to mix and match sets to get 8 good rods and then re-balance them all. The next motors I build will be with a USA made rod, probably Crower. They are $1000-$1500 more a set, but after all the time it takes to fix a $600 set of Chinese rods and still only have a set of Chinese rods I will gladly spend the extra money when building a $20,000 engine package.
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Old 07-19-2021 | 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by F-2 Speedy
why do you need to replace the one crank ? does the other engine have eagle crank and rods
The crank in the starboard engine is a external balanced Forged GM crank and 7/16 forged rods. The Port engine has a internal balanced Molner crank with GM 7/16 rods. The GM crank may be able to be polished but its still external balanced would have to be rebalaced for the new pistons. Engine builder wants to make the rotating assemblies the same.
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Old 07-19-2021 | 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by phughes69
The crank in the starboard engine is a external balanced Forged GM crank and 7/16 forged rods. The Port engine has a internal balanced Molner crank with GM 7/16 rods. The GM crank may be able to be polished but its still external balanced would have to be rebalaced for the new pistons. Engine builder wants to make the rotating assemblies the same.
Personally Id match the crank and rods with Molnar, but thats my OCDness............
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Old 07-19-2021 | 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by F-2 Speedy
Personally Id match the crank and rods with Molnar, but thats my OCDness............
I think thats what im going to do. this way ill have some modern JE pistons and molner rods and a internally balanced molner crank
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Old 07-20-2021 | 06:33 AM
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You wont be sorry with the Molnar Rods , Tom has some Quality components , and is very easy to reach .
There are alot of big name builders that use Toms components rebranded to their name.
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Old 07-21-2021 | 11:55 PM
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I like Molnar
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Old 07-25-2021 | 10:06 AM
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first,,i would get both motors internally balanced,,,,,then ...your call on rods etc,,,i have eagles and srp pistons in mine...but i dont run boat much either..
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