HP 500 Low oil pressure, low water pressure, low engine temperature
#1
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Thanks for the help on my other problems OSO.
So I have now had this engine in and running for about a month now. The lake has only allowed me to open her up 1 time so far. It really is much more stout than the 502 MAG I previously had. But I do have issues i cannot figure out still.
1. low oil pressure.
Using Torco 20W 50 motor oil. I get 40 psi at the gauges (new gauges this winter) at start up.(The engine came with Merc 25W 40 in it and had same pressure before I changed it out) After any moderate running 3k RPM for extended periods and I drop down to idle speed, pressure drops to around 20 PSI. I have read this is normal for hot oil.
I finally made a brief, fully loaded (7 adults) WOT pass up to 5k RPM I saw oil pressure was only at 38 psi. So pressure is actually decreasing with more RPM.
I am going to try removing 1 qt of oil and see if this helps. Being a new to me engine, and the dip stick doesn't appear to be the original, I am suspect at the amount of oil I should have in the crankcase.
Can anyone please measure the length of their HP 500 dipstick so I can compare mine? Mine has the yellow plastic ball on top, the original appears to be the metal "p" handle type.
2. Low water pressure
Only seeing 3- 4-5 water psi max at cruising speed. Didn't observe pressure at 5k RPM.
New water pressure gauge installed this winter. Fitting installed into thermostat housing. Long run of hydraulic hose going from front of engine along the side up to the gauges. Prob about 25' of hose total. Not sure if I am getting pressure drop due to length?
Seawater pump was new with the engine. I also replaced it to eliminate possibility. Water circulation pump was just replaced. Thermostat housing has been changed from stock. (came like this when I bought it)
3. Low engine temperature
New temp sender (and old one tested too) mounted in intake manifold. When in the water gauge almost never comes off the peg. (New gauges this winter) When running on the muffs in the driveway, it will go up to 175* and the thermostat opens and it will drop down to around 140*. After driving to destination and restarting the engine the gauge will display temp due to heat soak. (maybe 130-140ish?) but once under way, it will fall back down to below 120*
I was chasing my tail thinking the gauge was not working, but it appears it actually is, just not reaching enough temp to register.
Not sure if these are related in some way or not? Possibly too much flow and not enough restriction?
Water route is as follows. Bravo 1 to sea water pump. sea water pump to oil cooler. Oil cooler to power steering cooler. Power steering cooler to thermostat housing front port side fitting.
There is no bypass hose being used.
Rear port and starboard thermostat housing fittings go to bottom of CMI headers.
There is no milky color to oil, so it does not appear to be condensating. Which means oil is getting up to temp
Here's a pic to show what I have installed. As always, thank you for your help.




So I have now had this engine in and running for about a month now. The lake has only allowed me to open her up 1 time so far. It really is much more stout than the 502 MAG I previously had. But I do have issues i cannot figure out still.
1. low oil pressure.
Using Torco 20W 50 motor oil. I get 40 psi at the gauges (new gauges this winter) at start up.(The engine came with Merc 25W 40 in it and had same pressure before I changed it out) After any moderate running 3k RPM for extended periods and I drop down to idle speed, pressure drops to around 20 PSI. I have read this is normal for hot oil.
I finally made a brief, fully loaded (7 adults) WOT pass up to 5k RPM I saw oil pressure was only at 38 psi. So pressure is actually decreasing with more RPM.
I am going to try removing 1 qt of oil and see if this helps. Being a new to me engine, and the dip stick doesn't appear to be the original, I am suspect at the amount of oil I should have in the crankcase.
Can anyone please measure the length of their HP 500 dipstick so I can compare mine? Mine has the yellow plastic ball on top, the original appears to be the metal "p" handle type.
2. Low water pressure
Only seeing 3- 4-5 water psi max at cruising speed. Didn't observe pressure at 5k RPM.
New water pressure gauge installed this winter. Fitting installed into thermostat housing. Long run of hydraulic hose going from front of engine along the side up to the gauges. Prob about 25' of hose total. Not sure if I am getting pressure drop due to length?
Seawater pump was new with the engine. I also replaced it to eliminate possibility. Water circulation pump was just replaced. Thermostat housing has been changed from stock. (came like this when I bought it)
3. Low engine temperature
New temp sender (and old one tested too) mounted in intake manifold. When in the water gauge almost never comes off the peg. (New gauges this winter) When running on the muffs in the driveway, it will go up to 175* and the thermostat opens and it will drop down to around 140*. After driving to destination and restarting the engine the gauge will display temp due to heat soak. (maybe 130-140ish?) but once under way, it will fall back down to below 120*
I was chasing my tail thinking the gauge was not working, but it appears it actually is, just not reaching enough temp to register.
Not sure if these are related in some way or not? Possibly too much flow and not enough restriction?
Water route is as follows. Bravo 1 to sea water pump. sea water pump to oil cooler. Oil cooler to power steering cooler. Power steering cooler to thermostat housing front port side fitting.
There is no bypass hose being used.
Rear port and starboard thermostat housing fittings go to bottom of CMI headers.
There is no milky color to oil, so it does not appear to be condensating. Which means oil is getting up to temp
Here's a pic to show what I have installed. As always, thank you for your help.




#2
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Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Wichita, Kansas
Man...your trials and tribulations with this project have made me totally rethink doing something similar!
Not being familiar with this engine at all, but it seems to me that the most perplexing issue is the low temperature whilst running.
Not being familiar with this engine at all, but it seems to me that the most perplexing issue is the low temperature whilst running.
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Baja 252 Islander
Baja 252 Islander
#3
First off what size is the oil pan ? how many qrt's did you put in including the filter ? your oil pressure doesn't look out of line to me, at higher rpm's some times the oil will start to foam with the crank wiping it, does it start to come back up when at idle for a few minutes, water temp looks ok to, whats the water temp you are running in. is the temp sender unshrouded meaning in direct water flow, might need a new T-stat
#4
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Many of the electrical issues are of my own doing. I replaced all my gauges and redid the dash panels, so EVERY wire was removed and replaced.
#5
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First off what size is the oil pan ? how many qrt's did you put in including the filter ? your oil pressure doesn't look out of line to me, at higher rpm's some times the oil will start to foam with the crank wiping it, does it start to come back up when at idle for a few minutes, water temp looks ok to, whats the water temp you are running in. is the temp sender unshrouded meaning in direct water flow, might need a new T-stat
Rule of thumb is 10 psi of oil for every 1k RPM. So by that, I should see 50 psi at 5 k, correct? Honestly, I haven't noticed how long it takes for it to come back up from 20 to 40 PSI as I'm usually back in the marina/dock and shutting the engine down.
Water temp I'm running in is around 75* now.
Temp sender is mounted inside a thread adapter in the intake manifold. It does appear the sender is recessed in the thread adapter. Maybe There's an air pocket trapped beneath the sender and not actually immersed in the water?
Thanks for the help F2.
#6
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Joined: Jun 2010
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I believe it's an 8 qt oil pan. I put in about 8 1/2 - 9 qts when I changed it. K&N tall oil filter
Rule of thumb is 10 psi of oil for every 1k RPM. So by that, I should see 50 psi at 5 k, correct? Honestly, I haven't noticed how long it takes for it to come back up from 20 to 40 PSI as I'm usually back in the marina/dock and shutting the engine down.
Water temp I'm running in is around 75* now.
Temp sender is mounted inside a thread adapter in the intake manifold. It does appear the sender is recessed in the thread adapter. Maybe There's an air pocket trapped beneath the sender and not actually immersed in the water?
Thanks for the help F2.
Rule of thumb is 10 psi of oil for every 1k RPM. So by that, I should see 50 psi at 5 k, correct? Honestly, I haven't noticed how long it takes for it to come back up from 20 to 40 PSI as I'm usually back in the marina/dock and shutting the engine down.
Water temp I'm running in is around 75* now.
Temp sender is mounted inside a thread adapter in the intake manifold. It does appear the sender is recessed in the thread adapter. Maybe There's an air pocket trapped beneath the sender and not actually immersed in the water?
Thanks for the help F2.
our 500efis’s when hot are 20psi at idle and 40-45 psi when running regardless of rpm.
has always been that way on both motors…never had a problem. also depends on oil pump and spring.
#8
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Looking through the service manual it does address my oil pressure and only lists 30-70 psi at 2k RPM. So I guess I'm good.
Shows it being an 8 qt system with filter. I originally added until the dipstick was on full mark. Yesterday I did remove about 1 qt for testing. but water was too rough for anything above 3k RPM, so today hopefully I can see if that helped bring it up a bit.
Thanks for the help




