Having my engines refreshed with new flat tappet cams. I have been using Valvoline high zinc oil 20 x 50. It has a zinc level of 1400. Should I add comp cams break in additive to this oil? or should I just use 8 quarts of break in oil without the Valvoline oil.
Thanks in advance.

Something like this (doing quick search, summit racing has great sale on it)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/l...iABEgJPZPD_BwE





From lucas oil’s site:
https://lucasoil.com/pdf/Zinc_Values_MotorcycleOil.pdf

Can I get away with 30 weight? It's only really around 20 minutes of run time right?

Yup, 30w is pretty thick.

They make a 20w-50 break in too, if you want.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/luc-10636-1

Others make break in oil too. I have no favorites, was just pointing out the lucas 30w break in oil was pretty cheap at Summit right now.

I’m using sae 30 with Lucas break in additive to break in a rebuild. Then doing an oil change after breaking 30mins or so. I also have a magnetic oil plug in there to grab bits of metal. Then I switch to lever oil plug for quick drains and I use conventional motor oil (match the weight to man. Specs) for next 20-25 hours. Then follow manufacturer suggestions on synthetics and weights (most likely fine to switch to synthetics but double check).

I think I'll use the 30 weight also since it is cheaper and it's only for 20 to 25 minutes of run time. I was then going use VR1 racing oil 20/50 This oil has very high zinc and phosphorus around 1400. I used to use amzoil Z rod 20/50 full synthetic. The z rod oil is great for Winter storage. It has anti rust inhibitors.
I'll probably switch back to that after 3 oil changes. I have a magnet on my oil pan. Tough to reach . The fast change hoses are a good idea.

Ive never broke in an engine with a multi viscosity oil...........but do the the 20-50 high zinc VR-1 afterwords

I’ve run straight 30 Napa (valvoline) in most everything I have and never an issue. Although I have run 20/50 from time to time also with good luck. I grew up near two well known engine builders both from opposite sides of the tracks so to speak and they both swore on straight weight oil. Considering I’m still running the same car I had when I was told that (fk - going in 40 yrs) I’m gonna keep going with it. I recall you being aware of the importance of zinc with your hyd flat tappet cams and be sure and keep us posted on your builds. I’m curious and hope the best for you. Did you end up using the comp grind? That one looked really good I thought.

Id follow SB’s advice on the break in oil (Lucas 30).

Note: I’m pretty sure Napa oil still comes from valvoline. Either way they have very strict ingredients from whom they purchase.

edit: Going back to your original question - if you do use your 20/50 for break in definitely use the comp zinc additive. No need to with the Lucas break in which is a great price (fyi)
Cheaper going the Lucas route. That’s another thing I’m guilty of… I’ve never used any break in oil. I do however understand the benefits. Go out and build up some heat, look for any leaks, shut it down and let cool, start back up and giver he!!.

What carbs you running? If the 800’s your jetting should be close to the 502/465 jetting. Staggered

Sorry so long winded… I couldn’t sleep!!! 😂

Yes I finally got those cams.. First ordered them from Jegs. but could not get a ship date from them so I got them from summit.racing. Motors aren't done yet. I will probably use the straight 30 lucas break oil.. then go to 20/50 VR! high zinc. My carbs are 850 DP setup/ flowed by Nickerson performance in Bristol PA. I contacted them and they said no jet change needed since the cams are relatively close. The carbs are blueprinted to my engines. 78 jets pri 86 sec, They do a nice job there. One thing I never had was carb issues.. Turn key and go!