Is there a write up or the correct way to set this? I can boat all day and not have a problem but at the dock putting boat in foward and neutral many times (dont do that all day) she will just turn right off just like turning the key off--it is not loading up or leaning out or anything--it runs fine and then just turns off. I had one code for (236 code emergency stop). The kill switch acts fine, I tested that many times. I really feel like its in the shift interrupter. When I pull back on the shifter the interrupter will engage but it is engaging while still in forward. The shifter still has about 1/2" more travel before it hits neutral.

Thank you guys so much for your help and time!! P.S. I did order both new switches that will be here Monday just to be safe.

It's been a while but here goes:
There are 2 switches on the shift bracket, one is the neutral position switch (the switch under the shift lever on the bracket) which will not let it start in-gear, the other is the interrupt switch (operated by the detent ball and peg with a special holder mounted to the shift bracket).
Like I said, it has been a while, so someone could point out that I am wrong, but I don't think either should "completely" kill the ignition when activated. The interrupt switch just kills a set number of cylinders for a limited amount of time to quickly drop rpm to make it easier to pull out of gear. I think you can disconnect it to disable it to see if it still has the issue.

The basic cable adjustment:
1) Cables off of the shift bracket, Shift lever on the bracket in solidly in the neutral position detent. This is a good time to check that the detent ball/spring depresses properly. There have been cases where the detent ball starts sticking in the barrel. It is easy to tell when there are no cables attached. If this is an issue, the easies thing to do is remove the shift lever at the center screw and remove the ball detent plunger, clean it and grease it with a little 2-4-C. The very early ones had a different material ball that was upgraded to a higher quality stainless later to resist corrosion better.
2) The interrupt switch button should not be depressed and if you slide the "peg" that the detent ball pushes on against the ball, there should be a slight gap between the peg and the switch, .025-.035" if I remember right. I think we found that you could adjust it with the ball fully raised (between gear positions) using a 030 feeler gage between the peg and the body of the switch, the peg fully pushed in, then tighten the screws.
3) With the shift bracket solidly in neutral and the shift lever at the dash in neutral, adjust the cable to the dash until it both are positively in neutral.
4) With the transmission in neutral, adjust the trans cable at the barrel and/or the cable end so it slides onto the shift lever and bracket. Double check that the shift travel is correct, it is possible to have a combination of the threaded barrel and the cable end on the transmission that does not allow the transmission to shift fully into gear.

I hope this all makes sense, easier to show than describe. It has been at least 10 years since I have worked on one first hand.

Wow thanks for all your time and yes that all makes perfect sense i will check and make any adjusments tonight after work.

Thank you so much!! Skydog