To start with, I want you guys to know that I'm not looking for free advice on what parts to buy.
Most of you have probably commented on my post "First Dyno Complete" and I have learned a lot from those posts which brings me to this question.
I have my builder "dead to rights" on using incorrect clearances for the piston to wall and piston ring end gaps. Indisputable based on his build sheet for my engines and the information packets supplied by the piston and ring manufacturers for a "Marine Application".
If you had built these engines and were presented this information and then you were asked to make it right on your dime, would you? Keep in mind that I'm not attacking you, I am calmly laying out the facts and asking you to make it right.
I haven't presented this to my builder yet. I wanted to know ahead of time if this is going to be an uphill battle or not. I am pretty sure I would never see a dime back from him (voluntary or through the courts) so I'm thinking of different avenues. I would not have a problem paying for him to clearance the mains to the proper spec's. I would also pay to have the valve guides in the heads done however by a different shop.
Please try and keep the replies to the actual question rather than "If I were in your shoes I would do....." or I wouldn't make that mistake in the first place, or you need to find another builder. None of that is helpful to me at this point. $hit happens to us all no matter good we think we are.
The shop I used has been around for quite a while and I know he can do the work properly. Yes I realize that he should have looked at the spec sheet but what's done is done. On the bright side for repairing this is it's all undersized.
I am not making excuses for the shop. I am trying to salvage this $hit show I find myself in. Thanks for your comments.

I’ve read most of the posts but not all. I know my way around a LS real well. BBC’s not so much.

one question I have is did you sign off on this build? Did he say here are the plans, please sign off and I will build to these tolerances?
rebuilding a rebuild sucks. I doubt you’d be able to nor would you want them to touch it again regardless. Getting your money back would be unlikely, even less so if you signed off. However what you have going for you is a clear sign of issues in your dyno. I’d expect you to have some kind of startup but no usage guarantee, etc,,, get this in writing.

I would not put engines in my boat, nor take them to sea let alone have others (parents, kids, older onboard I was not 100% confident in (to the best of my knowledge at any given time, things happen). You don’t have that at the moment.

If it were me id compare paying someone reputable to rebuild or a combo swap and buy from a reputable builder (with references, insurance, a reasonable guarnatee) etc. if you explain you got burned most guys will deal real straight. The guys that don’t take the time to explain and talk you through it, run away from. But treat them with respect, not a good move to punish someone for someone else’s sins.

I'm worried you're going to find that the reputable builders that would hypothetically give you your money back wouldn't have made the mistake in the first place, whereas the builders that would make the mistake likely will fight you on your request.

Good luck man

I would vote for walk away from the problem and learn from the experience. Take your engines to a reputable marine engine builder who can get you on the water this Spring. If you're bent on the lack of justice you've been served on your boating upgrade just wait until you get lawyers involved

Take them to someone who knows what they are doing. You will be money ahead.

II would not put these engines back in the hands of the builder, move on. Many years ago I naively got myself into a situation like yours and learned why stock black or blue Mercruiser/Mercury power makes sense for many of us because we lack the skills to spec, build and maintain unique non-stock equipment.

What type of warranty or guarantee came along with the build?

Have you called KB and spoke to someone about their marine application specs? Use any info gained from them as ammo in your case.

Then I would just present him the build sheet and the KB piston install instructions. Express to him your and KB's concerns about the longevity of the engines and ask him what he would like to do about it? After all, he had the info at his disposal and chose to ignore the factory recommendations.

As for the heads, you purchased them and said they were already set up for marine application. In my mind, he was let off the hook on that.

I would give the man a chance to correct his mistake if you think he is capable to remedy the bottom end clearances. If you do not trust him and want $$ back, I feel you will be trying to get blood from the turnip you spoke about before. I was recently surprised to find there are still some good people that stand behind their word. Hopefully this man is one of them.

Good luck. Hope the outcome is in your favor.



.

xlint89, thanks for your comment. I have a plan to meet with him next week. I did NOT tell him they were ready for marine use. To be honest, I didn't know or read (my fault I suppose) that there were different requirements. AFR didn't offer to make them "marine ready" other than upgrading the exhaust valves and hard anodizing. It may be a pain in the a$$ for AFR to perform different clearances on their heads. Seems like just another line item expense to me. Missed opportunity I suppose. Even though I hold him harmless on the heads. it would have been nice for him to check. Could have made a few extra $$$$.
He's a decent guy and has been around a while. He was easy to work with.... of course I was feeding him money at the time, but nevertheless I think we can work something out.
I'll see next week if he's going to be helpful or not.

Out of sheer curiosity, what would need to be done to these engines to "marinize" them. Can a different ring set or piston be used to make a greater clearance? Do the heads need reworked?

Sucks to be in your position, and spring is right around the corner.

Tango, From what I have learned, the jury is out on the hypereutectic pistons. I can see where the forged would be better but I'm not convinced that the hypereutectic ones I have wouldn't work just fine for my application. I think you hone the cylinders to meet the piston requirements. These rings are probably fine they would need a little more filing depending on how much the cylinders were honed. The heads will come off regardless. The valve guides need to be opened up.