Rebuilding my 580cid BBC Advises Cam choices
#1
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Joined: Feb 2023
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Hi Guys I am a newly registered here but been following several nice posts. You guys always been entertaining and great.
So here I am rebuilding my engine in a 1992 Warlock World Class 26 Deep V (Damn it's a good boat) and it's a nice engine but kinda old. It's been rebuilt about 100 hours ago by a professional shop and I believe he did it right but the previous owner was not really aware of what he had in his hands and was basically doing tube rides with it. Anyway here is what I know about it and I might want to replace the cam cause it's old technology and I believe there is newer design with improved vacuum characteristics for better Idle and overall performance.
Chevrolet Bowtie Block 4.530 bore
BRC Crank 4.500 stroke
JE Forged flat top piston 1 valve relief (full floating)
Eagle Lightweight H-Beam rods
Dart Pro1 310cc head (actually in shop for 3 angles valve job and proper cleaning)
General Kinetics Hydraulic Roller Camshaft 647/647 lift 308 advertised duration 110 LSA (should have full spec shortly it's at the shop too)
Dart Dominator Intake (hi rise)
Holley 1050CFM Dominator (vintage model)
Looks like 7/16 Black pushrod need to document shortly
Red Roller rocker 1.7 no name on it but could be old Comps no loose or slack on the bearing or roller
Melling HV oil pump
Canton 10 qts oil pan
Crossover bybass instead of circulating water pump.
Here is the deal why I took it apart. I saw an oil pressure problem when it is in high rev sustain (5000 rpm over a min) oil pressure went down at 20 psi... After stratching my head several times with all possibilities I believe I have 2 real problems.
1st Canton oil pan dipstick recommendation is wrong I checked the dipstick ADD/FULL zone and it's very low in the pan like 4-5 qts for sure will measure next weekend with water but oil level is below the baffles and about 3 inches below the built-in windage of the pan.
2nd Oil temp... That engine is running around 130-140 F all day long and I do not have a OIL TEMP GAUGE witch is be installed this summer. Oil was Black and smell gas but the engine wasn't running rich between 12.5-13.8 AFR and spark plugs were white with slight brownish color but very little.
I know it's a long story but with all the experience here I know I can do it only 1 time properly and want to make sure it is the right way.
What cam would do great in there? My dyno sheet was 720 HP @ 5500 and 760 lbs torque can't remember at what RPM but was in the 3500-4000 range.
Thank you in advance can't wait to get in touch with you guys!
P.S. I forgot to mention that I've bought a load of BBC parts recently and have tons of Solid Roller Lifters, Big valve spring for solid Roller to go to the moon and some Solid Roller camshaft as well. I would prefer to stay Hydraulic Roller for the trouble free maintenance on valve train but if it is really worth it or to my advantage to use them I could too.
So here I am rebuilding my engine in a 1992 Warlock World Class 26 Deep V (Damn it's a good boat) and it's a nice engine but kinda old. It's been rebuilt about 100 hours ago by a professional shop and I believe he did it right but the previous owner was not really aware of what he had in his hands and was basically doing tube rides with it. Anyway here is what I know about it and I might want to replace the cam cause it's old technology and I believe there is newer design with improved vacuum characteristics for better Idle and overall performance.
Chevrolet Bowtie Block 4.530 bore
BRC Crank 4.500 stroke
JE Forged flat top piston 1 valve relief (full floating)
Eagle Lightweight H-Beam rods
Dart Pro1 310cc head (actually in shop for 3 angles valve job and proper cleaning)
General Kinetics Hydraulic Roller Camshaft 647/647 lift 308 advertised duration 110 LSA (should have full spec shortly it's at the shop too)
Dart Dominator Intake (hi rise)
Holley 1050CFM Dominator (vintage model)
Looks like 7/16 Black pushrod need to document shortly
Red Roller rocker 1.7 no name on it but could be old Comps no loose or slack on the bearing or roller
Melling HV oil pump
Canton 10 qts oil pan
Crossover bybass instead of circulating water pump.
Here is the deal why I took it apart. I saw an oil pressure problem when it is in high rev sustain (5000 rpm over a min) oil pressure went down at 20 psi... After stratching my head several times with all possibilities I believe I have 2 real problems.
1st Canton oil pan dipstick recommendation is wrong I checked the dipstick ADD/FULL zone and it's very low in the pan like 4-5 qts for sure will measure next weekend with water but oil level is below the baffles and about 3 inches below the built-in windage of the pan.
2nd Oil temp... That engine is running around 130-140 F all day long and I do not have a OIL TEMP GAUGE witch is be installed this summer. Oil was Black and smell gas but the engine wasn't running rich between 12.5-13.8 AFR and spark plugs were white with slight brownish color but very little.
I know it's a long story but with all the experience here I know I can do it only 1 time properly and want to make sure it is the right way.
What cam would do great in there? My dyno sheet was 720 HP @ 5500 and 760 lbs torque can't remember at what RPM but was in the 3500-4000 range.
Thank you in advance can't wait to get in touch with you guys!
P.S. I forgot to mention that I've bought a load of BBC parts recently and have tons of Solid Roller Lifters, Big valve spring for solid Roller to go to the moon and some Solid Roller camshaft as well. I would prefer to stay Hydraulic Roller for the trouble free maintenance on valve train but if it is really worth it or to my advantage to use them I could too.
Last edited by Funzy572; 02-27-2023 at 05:46 PM.
#2
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Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 140
Likes: 34
From: Massachusettes
I went with teague cams. Call them and they were great on helping pickout what suits your motor package the best. Also running there hydraulic roller lifters. They have billet cams. I figured buy the parts from the guys that dont seem to have many motor issues. They run these same lifters and cams in there own builds.
#3
Registered
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 172
Likes: 124
From: Dawsonville, GA
Cant help you with a cam suggestion... as that's best left for the experts... but I will suggest you send that carb to Dean Nickerson or Pat at Pro Systems to go over it once you figure out the engine combo.
I came from the drag racing world and have had carbs from both guys. The Pro Systems carb went on a 565BBC and the Nickerson went on a Big Chief 632. Dean did say that he couldn't make a single dominator large enough for the 632 to run it's best... and suggested a pair of them on a tunnel ram. The one he sent me was 1300-ish CFM and ran like a beast.
Both were perfect right out of the box and really only needed an idle speed adjustment... but otherwise lit right off and idled clean every time I blipped the starter.
I came from the drag racing world and have had carbs from both guys. The Pro Systems carb went on a 565BBC and the Nickerson went on a Big Chief 632. Dean did say that he couldn't make a single dominator large enough for the 632 to run it's best... and suggested a pair of them on a tunnel ram. The one he sent me was 1300-ish CFM and ran like a beast.
Both were perfect right out of the box and really only needed an idle speed adjustment... but otherwise lit right off and idled clean every time I blipped the starter.




