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E rated vs. G rated tires

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Old 05-11-2023 | 05:44 AM
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Default E rated vs. G rated tires

I'm currently running 6 E rated tires that have some age to them and the trailer seems to have developed a shake throughout the truck at speeds above 65. I suspect a broken belt in one or more of the older trailer tires. Has anyone gone from an E rated tire to a G rated tire and had any adverse results? The E rated seem to work fine but if I'm going to change them all why not have a little extra if it's available. Its only a few bucks more to upgrade to the G's. Thanks
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Old 05-11-2023 | 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by neva satisfied
I'm currently running 6 E rated tires that have some age to them and the trailer seems to have developed a shake throughout the truck at speeds above 65. I suspect a broken belt in one or more of the older trailer tires. Has anyone gone from an E rated tire to a G rated tire and had any adverse results? The E rated seem to work fine but if I'm going to change them all why not have a little extra if it's available. Its only a few bucks more to upgrade to the G's. Thanks
i went with 14 plys, forgot the rating right off my head, but i also put equal balancing powder in each one. my reasoning was based on fuel, loading position etc. using equal will self balance each wheel as the conditions change. i use to notice wear on the lt tires, so far the 14 plys still look new and ive got thousands of miles on them.
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Old 05-11-2023 | 09:23 AM
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I just switched from E-rated ST trailer tires to G-rated ST tires on my Toy Hauler.

As much as I have posted about, and shared about LT vs. ST tires, and the like over the years, this is the first time I've make the jump up to G-rated tires; now on my 44' Toy Hauler that I haul my race car in.

I can say with first hand experience, that it does tow NOTICEABLY better with the stiffer sidewall tires. (Pic is before tire upgrade. I went with same size tires, but they are a bit beefier when compared side by side.)

Depending your trailer, sometimes getting it a little lower may help getting the boat off.
Sailun and others come in a 235/80/16 and a 235/85/16. I went with the 80 so the trailer sits just a shade lower which helps when getting my racecar in and out.

https://simpletire.com/brands/sailun...16&mpn=5541960

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Old 05-11-2023 | 10:15 AM
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THE GREAT DEBATE......I never had 14 ply tires because I never had a boat/trailer that needed the weight requirements. Also I can't see why changing from 10 ply to 14 ply would give any adverse results other than running stiffer (subjective) if you had a light boat/trailer.
What is the weight of your boat fully loaded plus the trailer? What are the axles rated for? Why is 14 ply on your mind?
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Old 05-11-2023 | 02:34 PM
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Made the jump from E to F on our last trailer/boat, it made a noticeable difference. Its also recommended to install steel valve stems for F and further on, PSI on F are 90. Just bought a new trailer/boat and it has E tires, sidewalls definitely flexing a lot more than F on tight turns, G would be a substantial upgrade.
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Old 05-11-2023 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by AmiableDave
THE GREAT DEBATE......I never had 14 ply tires because I never had a boat/trailer that needed the weight requirements. Also I can't see why changing from 10 ply to 14 ply would give any adverse results other than running stiffer (subjective) if you had a light boat/trailer.
What is the weight of your boat fully loaded plus the trailer? What are the axles rated for? Why is 14 ply on your mind?
The trailer is a tri- axle aluminum Manning with torsion axles, the boat weighs about 11,500 full of fuel +/- The trailer has to weigh 3,500-4,000 on top of that? The only reason I'm thinking 14 ply is longevity. I feel that the chances of a blowout may be less than with 10 ply. I figured if I'm going to change all 6 tires I may as well to to G rated.
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Old 05-12-2023 | 02:41 AM
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We had a new trailer built a couple years ago and specced it out with Load range Gs. Pulls and handles much better than an E range. Less flex in turns and more stable. Seems to roll easier as well.
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Old 05-12-2023 | 05:40 AM
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14 ply only way to go. Worry free. After you have been changing Lots of E rated you will appreciate the 14 ply. Tight turns are hell on others..
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Old 05-12-2023 | 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by VoodooRob
Made the jump from E to F on our last trailer/boat, it made a noticeable difference. Its also recommended to install steel valve stems for F and further on, PSI on F are 90. Just bought a new trailer/boat and it has E tires, sidewalls definitely flexing a lot more than F on tight turns, G would be a substantial upgrade.
Also when stepping up to higher psi tires, make sure the rims are rated for the higher pressure.
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Old 06-02-2023 | 11:58 PM
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There hasn't been 10, 14 fiber ply sidewall tires in decades. Tires of today may have only two or three fiber plies in their sidewall. It's the rubber compound used in the sidewalls nowadays that gives a tire it's alphabetical rating.
I'd worry about the load index of your tire before I worry about the sidewall alphabetical rating. I have E tires with 120 load index. Tires of the same alphabetical rating have different load indexes. I also have a speed rating of S.. 4 tires inflated to 80 psi can carry 12,344 lbs. When all is said and done I have a ton to spare. The tires can handle 112 mph. That's good enough for me.
The National Transportation Safety Board has under inflated tires at the top of the list of sidewall blowouts. Next is tire overload. That's why knowing your tires load index is important. Then take your tire of choice. Combined the load index and subtract your trailer weight, your boat weight wet, accessories and supplies. In other words loaded it up and take it to the scales. See what you have left over. What speed are you going to run your tires at? I run 70/80 mph on the interstate with tires that can go to 112.
There's a lot that goes into tires. Don't have a false sense of safety by just buying load range G.
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