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Old 04-19-2024 | 10:32 AM
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I'm finishing up my cabin and cockpit upholstery on my scarab flatdeck project and am seriously considering cabin A/C (wife, kids, grandkids etc.) I wouldn't consider it but I'm liking this DC powered unit (comes with an inverter). I'd have to run a water inlet from the engine room with probably a pressure regulator, and drain out the sink drain on the port side (don't want any more holes in the hull). This unit is 6000btu but looks like it's more than up to the task. It would be an extra 61lbs not counting any of the plumbing etc.

Am I missing something? Thoughts? Ideas?

Here's the unit..

https://citimarinestore.com/en/ctm-m...er-21601c.html
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Old 04-19-2024 | 11:20 AM
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Wow, i haven't seen this one yet but we are actually working with City Marine specking one of our pumps for his systems.
It doesn't say if there's a pump included with that system or not...it says they recommend a 250gph pump...that places it in our series 2...most common is the LC-2CP-MD
Only thing to keep in mind is battery capacity. Not sure how long you want to be out on the water running the AC on battery power...but you would need to size battery's according to that...
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Old 04-19-2024 | 12:52 PM
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Does your Scarab already have shore power? I'm not quite sure why it's listed as 12v when it actually requires 115v. That's a lot of money for it to run off of an inverter - and it will kill the house battery bank unless its huge (not really possible in an offshore performance boat).

https://www.marinaire.com/Marine-air...-p/msba6k2.htm

Add your pump and ductwork, and a generator (Honda 2k works great) and you'd be set.
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Old 04-19-2024 | 01:40 PM
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I love my AC on my 37 AT and would add it if it wasn't already there. My 30' Panther was not necessary.
I don't understand how that 12V AC would work. I have a AC on a cruiser that can run off 4 1275 Trojan golf cart batteries inverted and that doesn't last long. Shore power or AC/DC would be the only way to go.
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Old 04-19-2024 | 01:53 PM
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Sorry I wasn't clear, I was planning on only using this unit when the engines were running and underway or when plugged into shore power. I wouldn't run it any other time as I'm sure the batteries would be killed pretty quickly. Guess I need to do more research to see if my alternators would be up to the task? I don't want the added weight of a generator or more batteries. If this wouldn't work my passengers would just have to sweat. I want this to be a fast slow boat lol

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Old 04-19-2024 | 02:10 PM
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I had a 5000btu 120v ac unit on my boat. A grp 27 battery would last 2 hrs using an inverter on it.
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Old 04-19-2024 | 02:17 PM
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The holy grail in the marine AC systems is to run in 12v DC only.....only way to do it so far is to run on an inverter....so its still technically a 115v AC system. But they are doing some cool stuff getting closer to make it a reality....battery capacity will always be the limiting factor of this kind of system...
The only thing thats trowing me on the specs of the one you posted is the current consumption f the inverter...it says 38.5Amps but the inverter only has a 15amp fuse???
the AC unit itself is drawing a max of 4.5Amps when cooling and our little pump would be pulling about 1amp at full output...so they system should only be pulling under 6 amps total which is not much....so depending on the inverter you could run for decent amount of time on the batteries.
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Old 04-19-2024 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by hblair
only using this unit when the engines were running and underway or when plugged into shore power.
running it while underway? depending on how fast your running you may be asking for problems. I had a guy once call me cause they were blowing the cooling tube seals out on our pump on his outerlimits when they ran over 80mph! LOL
he solved his issue with a solid sea strainer and a pressure relief valve for any pressure spikes when they launched and re-entered. Also make sure the inlet for the AC system has a scoop type thru-hull. If its flat to the bottom it may siphon the liquid out of the AC system as your running and water is going past the opening. Alot of sail boats have that problem too
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Old 04-19-2024 | 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Wally
running it while underway? depending on how fast your running you may be asking for problems. I had a guy once call me cause they were blowing the cooling tube seals out on our pump on his outerlimits when they ran over 80mph! LOL
he solved his issue with a solid sea strainer and a pressure relief valve for any pressure spikes when they launched and re-entered. Also make sure the inlet for the AC system has a scoop type thru-hull. If its flat to the bottom it may siphon the liquid out of the AC system as your running and water is going past the opening. Alot of sail boats have that problem too
Yeah I'm dealing with water pressure problems currently and have water pressure gauges at the helm so I keep an eye on the pressure to my motors. I have the transom mounted pickups, and have been slowly trimming them to hopefully get the pressure manageable at higher speeds. My friend with a 42 cigarette has pressure regulators for his motors and I may have to go that route for the motors as well as the a/c if I purchase this unit. Like you said 12 volt dc is the holy grail of boat a/c, you'd think somebody would have figured it out and made it easier by now.
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Old 04-19-2024 | 05:56 PM
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Why underway? The wind isn`t enough??? plus theres this thing called water all around the boat you can cool off in .lol
Forget that idea , you`ll never use it and it won`t work that way anyway.
Right way to do it is a seperate pick up , strainer or plumb into current strainer while at the dock, and while at the dock you have shore power so you can get a unit thats half the cost and without all that extra bull$hit.Converters and all that
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