I found via Amazon a seller than can provide the Mercury Racing paint in a base with clear.

WA7563 Bright Blue Metallic (1981 GM Code 20)



I bought two can sets just in case something went wrong (and it did - blue died halfway through and one of the clears was dead on arrival).

This is a 2K urethane/catalyst hardener that mixes outside of the can.

** Important!! ** You must use a respirator with media meant to filter out VOCs/isocyanates. Skin and eye protection is also required. People can become permanently disabled or worse from isocyanate exposure. I used a full-face respirator, Tivek suit, and heavy duty rubber gloves. I also painted outdoors away from anyone that could come in contact with the mist.


** I tried painting them with a DupliColor Chrysler paint but was too light so I had to start over.

I prepped two 800 DP Holley’s for paint. I completely disassembled and cleaned them up really well with acetone. I then sprayed them with a self-etching lacquer primer, and then used a primer sealer to create a barrier between the self-etching primer and to promote adhesion of the urethane. I let all primer stages dry for at least 24 hours - once they were no longer out-gassing, they were good to go.

Painting - I laid down the first color coat. Came out great! I then let it sit for 20 minutes and then did one more coat. Again, came out great! I then collected everything to dry for a couple hours. Then it was time for the clear. The clear needs to go on before the base coat fully cures. I followed the same steps to apply the clear. Again, came out great!

Some pics of the results (excuse my mess of a bench):



Ignore the vents tubes - I need to bend and cut.



Just about as perfect a match as you can get from a can - for comparison, one of my 850 DP carbs painted back in 2007 with actual Merc Racing Blue. The sunlight is making the 850 appear a little lighter than it actually is.

These carbs are for the starboard side. I’m thinking I’ll repair the port carbs to freshen them up (the port carbs are original HP 500 9022s).

Was it worth all the work? Yes!

While I could have kept the Chrysler color (it was good looking) - I was going to end up being in a bind with regard to paint damage from fuel. To prevent damage, a hardening clear was necessary (an acrylic lacquer clear never fully cures hard). I also wouldn’t have been able to apply a 2K clear without risk of crinkling/cracking so I decided to redo all of it.

I was not happy with the paint going bad on me - risk mitigation saved the day though.

Cool project.

Those look fantastic. Thanks for the info.

Thanks! It took a lot of work to do but I really do like how they came out.

We were talking about doing the same with the blowers, but I think I'll just redo the other set of HP500 carbs and call it done. These along with all the AN fittings and the polished blower cases should really pop when all is said and done.

The rest of the boat may continue to need some attention, but these engines are going to look great!

that looks great!

Thank you sir!

"Ignore the vents tubes - I need to bend and cut."....

You know someone was going to give you a hard time about that...lol.

I need to do my blowers as well. Not 100% on my engine pain scheme yet. It's really hard to see block and heads when installed anyway. I was thinking like a charcoal blpck/head colour, with metalic blue on the rockers and blower etc.

I just happen to like met blue, but it's hard to find paint in a rattle can. At least up here, north of the 49th. I got some of the metalchrome and the special primer. We'll see if that works on some aluminum plate. How robust it is.

Nice work on the carbs.

Just out of curiosity, how well would the Duplicolor paint have held up? n

A rattle can enamel would run with fuel exposure is my thinking. It would need to be a real paint. The 2k stuff really worked well.