Hey guys just a quick one

i I know this is not the best practice but as it is our season now I would like to have a temporary fix until the new heads are ready which will be a couple months

i have a pin hole leak in my 1075 head. Luckily I caught it in time. Engine is in good shape

i would like to know what your thought on welding the pin hole as a temporary solution

I have attached a pic for reference

than you

More pics

Ayuh,...... Step 1, is strip the head, 'n clean it up, so you can clearly see the extent of the problem,......
Aluminum has to be absolutely Clean, before it can be welded, or you'll just be creating more holes in the metal,...
Then, 'n only then, you can weld it up,.....
After that, it'll have to be restored to the proper shape, 'n profile,....

the other problem,,the corrosion in the water jackets,you start to weld and it will pull the crap thru the weld.I've fixed plenty of heads.like bondo said,,clean clean clean.
then after welding,your gonna want to work harden the weld,ie,hitting it w/ a hammer to compact the weld.

and,,after all that,,the fcking head will leak in another chamber because you exposed the aluminum to water again.good luck,it can be daunting

Is it just one head or both? I might have a good used set for sale

Needle scaler or air hammer works well to peen.

Localized heat with a rosebud torch or propane etc helps to burn off the impurities. Oil can soak into the pores of the aluminum. Just don't heat it to much. Best is to have it evenly heated in an oven, something like that.

Probably a good idea to replace the valve seats also. You might have to cut the pockets oversize if they wind up out of round.

Take a small screwdriver or an ice pic and stick it in the hole and see how bad it actually is. Chances are it will fall apart when you do. Like the others said, welding it requires it to be completely cleaned. There are very few guys who can weld aluminum cylinder heads and get a good repair.

Drill bigger hole center of pin hole, make thread 6mm for example, cut bolt that have no thread section to half way so there is like 1mm no thread above thread. Loctite 548, then put bolt in place and tighten until bolt snap from cut, grind it and ready.
I have done that one cracked head so there was 6 pcs 8mm bolts side by side, worked well an I run it like 50h after that.
that way you dont have to change valve seats. If weld, all dimensions change

If its just a pin hole or even worse, look into the Goodson or Lock-N-Stich aluminum crack repair pins. Tapered pins you drill, tap, thread in till they snap off. I've welded 100's of heads and clean as best as you can and you will weld, grind out porosity, weld, grind, weld, grind etc. till you win. Crack repair pins are super slick especially the cast iron ones. I have repaired 8-10" long cracks in blocks with zero leaks and even ones in lifter valleys close to lifter bores. Big repairs are time consuming by no welding and no heat. If you aren't familiar with the process, you should look into it.